Techniques Academy

Trolling with flasher and anchovy teaser

Rig: 11" flasher, 36-42" leader to an anchovy teaser head

Key tip: Match trolling speed so the bait rolls, not spins. Fish the tide change.

Mooching

Rig: Banana sinker 3-6 oz, two-hook mooching rig

Key tip: Slow, deliberate lifts. Watch for the soft pickup on the drop.

Back-bouncing eggs in river pools

Rig: 3-5 oz cannonball sinker on a 12 in dropper, 30-36 in leader to a spin-n-glo or bare hook

Key tip: Work the deep green pools at first light; river chinook hug the bottom seam and bite softly despite their size.

Beach casting spinners and spoons

Rig: Single lure on a swivel, 8-10 lb leader

Key tip: Fish first light and the flooding tide. Retrieve fast with pauses.

Trolling spoons near the surface

Rig: Spoon 30-40 ft behind the boat, no flasher needed in fall

Key tip: Coho like speed: 2.5-3.5 mph is the sweet spot.

Vertical jigging swimbaits and leadheads

Rig: 6-9" swimbait on a 4-8 oz leadhead, fished on the bottom

Key tip: Keep contact with bottom. Most hits come on the first drop.

Drift fishing live bait over reefs

Rig: Two-hook trap rig on a 24-36" 40-50 lb leader, drifted behind a 6-10 oz sinker

Key tip: Drift reef edges and keep the bait just ticking bottom. A bait that suddenly panics usually means a lingcod is on it.

Swimbaits from jetties and rocky shore

Rig: 3/4-1 oz leadhead with a 5-6 in swimbait on a medium-heavy shore rod

Key tip: Cast along the jetty base and hop the bait back through the boulders; lingcod ambush from holes, so fish every pocket slowly.

Anchoring with a chum bag and spreader bar

Rig: Spreader bar, 16-24 oz weight, large circle hook

Key tip: Let scent work for 30-45 minutes before moving. Patience pays.

Drifting jigs

Rig: 12-16 oz jig or heavy leadhead with a grub

Key tip: Keep the jig near bottom with slow lifts; avoid dragging.

Jigging metal and soft plastics

Rig: 3-6 oz jig or leadhead with a 4-6" swimbait

Key tip: Fish vertically over the rock pile; avoid long drifts that snag.

Dropper loop bait fishing

Rig: Two-hook dropper loop rig with a 6-12 oz sinker below the hooks

Key tip: Drop to the bottom, reel up one crank and wait. Ignore the small taps — lift when the rod loads up.

Bait fishing from jetties

Rig: High-low rig with a 2-3 oz sinker dropped beside jetty rocks

Key tip: Drop straight into the rock gaps at your feet rather than casting far — jetty rockfish live in the wall itself.

Chironomid fishing under an indicator (lakes)

Rig: Indicator, long leader, chironomid pupa pattern at depth

Key tip: Find the depth with a hemostat on the fly, then fish 1 ft off bottom.

Casting small spinners (rivers and lakes)

Rig: 1/8 oz spinner on 6 lb line

Key tip: Cast across and swing through current seams.

Texas-rigged soft plastics in cover

Rig: 3/0 EWG hook, 1/4 oz tungsten weight, pegged

Key tip: Pitch tight to cover, hop twice, let it sit. Most bites are on the fall.

Topwater at dawn and dusk

Rig: Frog or popper on heavy braid

Key tip: Work the frog slow over mats; pause after every twitch.

Bank fishing with soft plastics

Rig: Weightless wacky-rigged stick worm or Texas-rig on a medium spinning rod

Key tip: Walk quietly and cast parallel to the bank cover first — shore bass hold within a rod length of the bank you stand on.

Ned rig and tube on rock

Rig: 1/8-1/4 oz mushroom head with a 2.75" stick bait, or a tube

Key tip: Drag it slowly. If you feel rock, you are in the zone.

Drop shot over humps

Rig: Drop shot, 3/8 oz weight, small finesse worm

Key tip: Shake in place; smallmouth cannot leave it alone.

Stream smallmouth on tubes and Ned rigs

Rig: 1/8 oz Ned head or a 3.5 in tube on a light spinning rod, fished while wading or from the bank

Key tip: Cast into eddies and current seams behind boulders; river smallmouth face upstream and grab baits drifting past.

Trolling dodger and micro hoochie

Rig: 4-6" dodger, 8-12" leader to a micro hoochie, corn on the hook where legal

Key tip: Speed 1.2-1.5 mph. Find the depth on the sounder and stay on it.

Vertical jigging over schools

Rig: 1/2-1 oz jigging spoon on 4-6 lb line, fished at the exact depth of the school

Key tip: Hover over the school and use short snaps. Most hits come on the fall — watch the line, not the rod tip.

Ice fishing small jigs over basins

Rig: Tiny jig or small spoon on 4 lb line under a flasher, fished at the depth of the school

Key tip: Kokanee travel in schools under the ice — when the flasher lights up, keep the jig dancing gently and the school will stay.

Vertical jigging over structure

Rig: 1/4-3/8 oz jig head with a minnow or plastic

Key tip: Short lifts, tight line on the drop — the bite is a tick.

Trolling crankbaits along breaks

Rig: Shallow- to medium-diving crankbait run 75-150 ft back on 10 lb line, flat-lined or behind planer boards

Key tip: Troll 1.5-2.5 mph so the lure ticks bottom now and then along the contour. Dawn, dusk and windy days beat bright calm ones.

Trolling a pink hoochie

Rig: Flasher with a 24-36" leader to a small pink hoochie or spoon

Key tip: Troll slow, 20-50 ft deep, right through visible schools.

Casting pink jigs from shore

Rig: 1/4-1/2 oz pink jig or spoon on a light spinning rod

Key tip: Cast beyond the school and twitch-retrieve through it. Fish the flood tide.

Float fishing jigs in rivers

Rig: Float with a 1/4 oz jig suspended 1-2 ft off bottom

Key tip: Dead-drift through deep pools and adjust depth until you find the travelling lane.

Casting spinners in the estuary

Rig: 3/8-1/2 oz spinner retrieved slow and deep

Key tip: Bright chum crush spinners on the flood. Keep the lure near bottom.

Trolling dodger and short leader

Rig: Dodger or flasher with a short 12-18" leader to a small hoochie

Key tip: Slow to 1.5-2 mph and stack rods at different depths to find the school.

River drift with yarn

Rig: Long leader with a small yarn tie and weight, drifted through deep runs

Key tip: Cover water methodically; sockeye travel tight lanes in the current.

Swinging wet flies

Rig: Floating line, 9-12 ft leader, wet fly cast across and swung down

Key tip: Cover a lie thoroughly, then rest it and try a smaller fly.

Dry fly and riffling hitch

Rig: Bomber-style dry fly, or a hitched wet fly skated on the surface

Key tip: A waking fly over a known holding fish draws dramatic rises.

Float or drift fishing

Rig: Float or drift weight with a 24-36" leader, bait or bead just off bottom

Key tip: Work a run in a grid, near to far. The first clean drift through a lie matters most.

Swinging spoons or flies

Rig: 2/5 oz spoon or weighted fly swung across the current on a tight line

Key tip: Let the swing slow and hang at the end — many takes come on the hang-down.

Casting spinners along shore

Rig: 1/8 oz spinner on a light spinning rod, cast parallel to shore

Key tip: Walk the beach on the flood tide and cast to rises and swirls.

Stripping fry patterns on the fly

Rig: Floating or clear intermediate line, 8 ft leader, fry streamer

Key tip: Strip fast with pauses. Cutthroat chase and slash — keep stripping after a miss.

Dry fly and nymph fishing in streams

Rig: 4-5 wt fly rod, floating line, dry fly or nymph under an indicator in runs and pocket water

Key tip: Cutthroat rise willingly to a well-drifted dry; fish the soft seams and log-jam pools and mend for a drag-free drift.

Casting big streamers to deep pools

Rig: Sink-tip fly line or spinning gear, 5-7" streamer

Key tip: Fish the deepest, slowest water in the run. Strip slow with long pauses.

Deep spoon and jerkbait work

Rig: 1/2 oz spoon or suspending jerkbait on medium spinning gear

Key tip: Count it down to bottom structure before retrieving.

Evening streamer fishing

Rig: Floating or sink-tip line, short stout leader, 3-4" streamer

Key tip: Fish the last hour of light tight to the banks. Big browns own the dark.

Matching the hatch with dries

Rig: 9' 5-weight, 12 ft tapered leader, dry fly

Key tip: Approach from downstream and keep drifts drag-free.

Casting tiny spinners in creeks

Rig: 1/16-1/8 oz spinner on an ultralight rod

Key tip: Cast upstream to pool heads and retrieve just fast enough to spin.

Dry fly on ponds

Rig: 9' 4-weight fly rod, floating line, dry fly

Key tip: Watch for rise rings at dusk and cover them with a gentle cast.

Vertical jigging tubes

Rig: 3/4-1 oz tube jig on a medium-heavy spinning rod

Key tip: Drop to bottom on a hump, reel up fast — lakers chase a fleeing jig upward.

Trolling spoons on downriggers

Rig: Downrigger set just above marked fish, spoon on a long leader

Key tip: Troll 1.8-2.2 mph along contour lines, not across them.

Ice fishing with tube jigs

Rig: 3/8-3/4 oz white tube jig on a medium ice rod, jigged over deep lake humps and breaks

Key tip: Jig a metre off bottom and watch the sonar — lakers rise fast to inspect, so be ready to reel up and trigger the chase.

Drifting egg patterns below salmon

Rig: Indicator or float, split shot, single egg pattern or bead

Key tip: Set up below spawning pairs and drift naturally through the egg lane.

Casting small spoons

Rig: 1/4 oz spoon swung and retrieved through pools

Key tip: Dollies slash at spoons in summer before the egg season starts.

Dry fly on pools

Rig: 9' 4-5 weight fly rod, floating line, 12 ft leader

Key tip: Grayling rise repeatedly — if one refuses, drop a fly size and try again.

Ultralight spinning

Rig: 1/16 oz spinner on 4 lb line

Key tip: Cast across pools and retrieve slowly just under the surface.

Drifting live bait

Rig: Three-way or dropper rig with a 4-6 oz sinker, live bait hook

Key tip: Drift with the tide and keep the bait ticking bottom. Wait on the pickup before setting.

Bouncing swimbaits

Rig: 1/4-1/2 oz leadhead in shallow surf and bays; 3/4-1 oz when drifting deeper channels — with a 4-5" swimbait

Key tip: Slow roll with rod-tip bounces so the tail thumps just off bottom.

Bottom fishing bait

Rig: Two-hook bottom rig with an 8-16 oz sinker

Key tip: Anchor over marks and let the scent draw the school under the boat.

Jigging metal

Rig: 6-10 oz metal jig on a stout boat rod

Key tip: Short, sharp lifts off bottom. Cod hit on the fall.

Poke-poling and shore bait fishing

Rig: Small hook with a split shot, dropped into rock and kelp pockets

Key tip: Drop the bait into every pocket and hole. The bite is a sharp peck.

Light jigging in kelp

Rig: 1/4-1/2 oz jig head with a small grub

Key tip: Fish the lanes between kelp strands and let the jig fall to the rock.

Bait fishing the rocks

Rig: Single hook with a 2-4 oz sinker, dropped into reef pockets

Key tip: Cabezon do not chase. Put the bait right on their doorstep and wait.

Swimbait over shallow reef

Rig: 5-6" swimbait on a 2-3 oz leadhead

Key tip: Slow-drag through boulders. The strike feels like the jig hit a wall.

Bottom bait from shore

Rig: Two-hook bottom rig with a 2-3 oz pyramid sinker

Key tip: Cast to the edge of the channel, not the middle of the flat. Recast if no bite in 15 minutes.

Slow drift from a boat

Rig: Single bait hook with a small sinker, drifted with the tide

Key tip: Keep the rig crawling along bottom over sand — flounder will not rise for it.

Trolling to find the school

Rig: Spread of cedar plugs and feathers trolled at 6-8 mph

Key tip: Watch the water temperature gauge — a 1-degree break is a highway.

Live bait on the stop

Rig: Fly-lined live anchovy on a 2/0 hook, no weight

Key tip: Chum lightly to hold the school, and keep one bait in the water at all times.

Casting plugs and swimbaits

Rig: Swimbait or plug on a surf or boat spinning rod, 20 lb leader

Key tip: Fish the tide change at dawn. Work rips from the up-current side.

Bait fishing channels

Rig: Fish-finder rig with a circle hook and 3-5 oz sinker

Key tip: Anchor on a channel edge and let fresh bait do the work on the ebb.

Surf bait fishing

Rig: Carolina rig — 1-3 oz egg sinker, 24" leader, size 4-6 hook

Key tip: Cast into the trough, not past it. Bites come as the wave recedes.

Grub fishing the surf

Rig: Carolina rig with a 2" motor-oil or perch-pattern grub

Key tip: Retrieve slowly through the whitewater. Perch hit a grub moving with the wash.

Popping cork and shrimp

Rig: Popping cork over an 18-24 in leader and a 3/0 circle hook

Key tip: Pop the cork hard, then pause. Reds home in on the sound.

Cut bait on the bottom for bulls

Rig: Fish-finder rig with a 6/0-8/0 circle hook and enough weight to hold

Key tip: Fish passes and surf troughs in fall. Let the circle hook load up.

Soft plastics over grass

Rig: 1/8-1/4 oz jig head with a 4 in paddle-tail or jerk shad

Key tip: Use a light drag and a soft hookset — trout mouths tear easily.

Topwater at dawn

Rig: Walk-the-dog plug on a short 20 lb leader

Key tip: Work pothole edges at first light before the sun pushes fish deeper.

Wading the grass flats

Rig: 1/8 oz jig head with a soft-plastic shrimp or paddle-tail on a light spinning rod

Key tip: Wade slowly and fan-cast the potholes and grass edges; shuffle your feet to avoid stingrays.

Drifting bait rigs

Rig: Three-way or fluke rig with a wide-gap hook, drifted with the tide

Key tip: Keep the rig moving and near bottom. Set after a count of three.

Bucktail jigging

Rig: 1-3 oz bucktail with a teaser hook 12 in above it

Key tip: Short, sharp hops. Fluke hit on the drop as the jig falls back.

Beach and pier bucktailing

Rig: 1/2-1 oz bucktail jig with a teaser, cast from the beach or a pier and hopped along the sand

Key tip: Cast up-current and hop the jig back with the tide so it sweeps the trough behind the first bar.

Trolling weed lines

Rig: Small skirted lure or rigged ballyhoo trolled at 6-8 knots

Key tip: Troll the clean edge of the weed line, not through the middle of it.

Casting to school fish

Rig: Spinning rod with a small jig or a hook baited with a chunk

Key tip: Keep one hooked fish in the water beside the boat — the school stays with it.

Live bait at structure

Rig: Free-lined or lightly weighted live bait on a 3/0-4/0 circle hook

Key tip: Cast tight to the mangroves or dock shadow and let the bait swim.

Jerkbaits along mangroves

Rig: Soft jerkbait on a weighted swim-bait hook, skipped under the branches

Key tip: Apply pressure instantly — a hooked snook heads straight for the roots.

Casting metals into the blitz

Rig: Heavy metal spoon on a short wire or heavy mono leader

Key tip: Retrieve fast. Use wire or 60 lb mono — teeth cut light leaders instantly.

Chunking with cut bait

Rig: Fish-finder rig with a 5/0 hook and a short wire leader

Key tip: Anchor up-current of the school and chum lightly to hold them.

Crab rigs over rock

Rig: High-low rig or tautog jig with a whole small crab or half a green crab

Key tip: Anchor precisely, fish vertically, and lift the instant you feel the tap-tap.

Snafu rig with a whole crab

Rig: Two 4/0-5/0 hooks snelled back-to-back through one whole crab, on a short 50-60 lb leader with a bank sinker on a fish-finder slide

Key tip: A big-fish rig for wrecks and deep rock. Let the tog eat through several taps before lifting smoothly — no hard hookset.

Jetty fishing with green crabs

Rig: Tautog jig or a simple one-hook rig dropped into jetty pockets with 2-3 oz of lead

Key tip: Drop the crab right into the rocks at your feet; jetty tog rarely venture more than a body length from their hole.

Sight-casting jigs

Rig: 2-3 oz bucktail or soft eel on a heavy spinning rod, ready to cast

Key tip: Lead the fish by several feet and work the jig across its nose.

Live bait at markers

Rig: Free-lined live bait on a 6/0-7/0 circle hook

Key tip: Check every buoy on the run — cobia hold within feet of the structure.

Slow-trolling live bait

Rig: Wire stinger rig — single hook in the nose, treble stinger behind

Key tip: Troll barely in gear. Wire is mandatory — kings cut mono cleanly.

Trolling spoons and plugs

Rig: Large drone spoon behind a planer or trolling weight

Key tip: Vary depth with planers until you find where the strikes come.

Casting spoons and spinnerbaits

Rig: Flashy lure on a 12 in steel or heavy fluorocarbon leader

Key tip: Always finish with a figure-eight at the boat — pike follow to the last foot.

Dead bait under a bobber

Rig: Quick-strike rig under a large slip bobber

Key tip: Best in cold spring water when pike will not chase.

River pike in sloughs and back eddies

Rig: Spoon or spinnerbait on a wire leader, cast to slack water behind points and log jams

Key tip: River pike avoid the main current — work every back eddy, slough mouth and flooded bay slowly and thoroughly.

Casting bucktails and big rubber

Rig: Double-bladed bucktail or 8-12 in rubber swimbait on a heavy leader

Key tip: Figure-eight on every cast, wide and deep. Most muskies strike at the boat.

Fall live-bait fishing

Rig: Large sucker on a quick-strike rig under a big float

Key tip: Slow-drift weed edges in fall while casting a second rod.

Drop-shot and spreader rigs

Rig: Two-hook spreader or drop-shot rig fished vertically on bottom

Key tip: Anchor over the school. A double header means you are in the right spot — stay.

Ice jigging with teardrop jigs

Rig: Short ice rod, 1/16-1/8 oz teardrop jig or small spoon on 3-4 lb line

Key tip: Perch roam in schools — drill several holes and keep moving until you find them, then keep the jig just off bottom with gentle shakes.

Jig fishing over brush

Rig: 1/16-1/32 oz jig head with a 2 in tube or shad body, fished vertically

Key tip: Count the jig down to the top of the brush and hold it still. Use a light drag.

Slip-float minnows

Rig: Slip float set to suspend a small minnow just above cover

Key tip: Set the depth 1 ft above the brush top to avoid snagging.

Float and worm

Rig: Small fixed float, split shot and a size 8-10 hook

Key tip: Fish it just off the weed edge. Small hooks — bluegill nip big baits to pieces.

Small poppers on a fly rod

Rig: Tiny foam popper or spider on a 3-4 weight fly rod

Key tip: Evenings over the beds in summer are non-stop action.

Bottom rig with scent bait

Rig: Sliding sinker rig with a 4/0-6/0 circle hook, fished on the bottom

Key tip: Cast, set the rod down and wait. Channels pick up a bait and move off steadily.

Drift fishing cut bait

Rig: Drift rig: 1-2 oz sinker above a swivel, 18-24" leader to a 5/0-7/0 circle hook

Key tip: Drift 0.3-0.8 mph along channel breaks with the bait just off bottom. Fresh bait hugely outperforms old frozen bait.

Live bait at timber at night

Rig: Heavy sliding-sinker rig with a 7/0-9/0 circle or kahle hook

Key tip: Set up before dark right against the log jam and stay quiet. Flatheads hunt close to home.

Three-way rig over deep holes

Rig: Three-way swivel rig from an anchored boat: 2-4 oz bank sinker on a short dropper, 24-36" leader to an 8/0 circle hook

Key tip: Anchor above deep outside bends and wintering holes and drop the bait right into the hole. Give a spot 30 minutes before moving.

Hair-rigged bait over pre-bait

Rig: Hair rig with a small boilie or corn, fished on a running lead

Key tip: Pre-bait a quiet flat for an hour or two. Carp bolt when they feel the hook — use a heavy lead.

Sight fishing on flats

Rig: Small crayfish or nymph fly, or a single corn kernel on light line

Key tip: Lead a tailing fish by a foot and wait for the line to tighten.

River ledgering with a method feeder

Rig: Method feeder or running lead with a short hair rig, cast to a pre-baited river margin

Key tip: Pre-bait a quiet river swim for an evening or two; river carp feed confidently once they find a regular food source.

Anchored bottom fishing

Rig: Heavy sliding weight (12-20 oz in current) on a short leader to a large barbless circle or J hook

Key tip: Match the bait to what is spawning or running. Wait out the taps before lifting.

Bank fishing the channel edge

Rig: 12-14 ft surf rod, sliding rig with a 6-12 oz pyramid or sputnik sinker and a short heavy leader to a barbless circle hook

Key tip: Cast to the edge of the deep channel and keep the line tight. The bite is often a few soft pumps — and it can take hours, so settle in.

Vertical jigging through the ice

Rig: Small jigging spoon or jig tipped with a maggot, fished just off bottom

Key tip: Use the lightest line you dare — the bite is a faint tick and the mouth is soft.

Slip-float fishing with maggots

Rig: Slip float set to fish 1-2 ft off bottom, size 10-14 hook below a few split shot, on 4-6 lb line

Key tip: A spring and fall method for piers and river mouths. The mouth is soft — lift gently and keep steady pressure, never a hard hookset.

Night ice fishing with glow jigs

Rig: Glow jig or spoon tipped with cut bait, pounded on the bottom

Key tip: Fish after dark over spawning shoals. Pound bottom, then hold still for the pickup.

Set lines on bottom

Rig: Weighted bait rig left on bottom at night where set lines are allowed

Key tip: Check lines frequently in winter — burbot swallow baits deeply.

Trolling skirted lures

Rig: Trolling rod, 5-7 lure spread at 6-8 knots

Key tip: Work the edges of bird piles and current lines rather than through the middle.

Live-baiting at FADs and buoys

Rig: 30-50 lb spinning or conventional outfit, 60 lb fluorocarbon leader

Key tip: Chum a few baits to raise the school, then pitch a hooked bait into the boil.

Trolling big lures

Rig: 80 lb class trolling outfits, 4-6 lure spread at 7-9 knots

Key tip: Run lures just behind the prop wash; stay near bait concentrations and ledges.

Live-baiting skipjack

Rig: 80-130 lb outfit, bridled live skipjack on a 16/0-20/0 circle hook

Key tip: Slow-troll or drift over the drop-off; let the fish eat fully before coming tight.

High-speed trolling

Rig: 50 lb trolling outfit, wire or cable leader, 12-16 knots

Key tip: Wire leader is non-negotiable — wahoo teeth slice mono instantly.

Trolling ballyhoo on the reef edge

Rig: 30-50 lb outfit, skirted ballyhoo, short wire trace

Key tip: Fish the deep side of the reef on the morning tide change.

Trolling feathers

Rig: 20-30 lb trolling outfit, small lures at 6-8 knots

Key tip: Keep the boat moving after the first strike — doubles and triples are common.

Chumming live bait at FADs

Rig: 20 lb spinning outfit, small circle hook

Key tip: Toss a few free baits, wait for the boil, then cast into it.

Bottom fishing over structure

Rig: Carolina or knocker rig with 4-8 oz lead, 7/0 circle hook

Key tip: Use just enough weight to hold bottom; big snapper hit on the drop, so stay ready.

Live-baiting for sow snapper

Rig: Heavy bottom outfit, 80 lb leader, large circle hook

Key tip: Fish the edges of the structure — the biggest fish hold off the main school.

Sight-casting to rolling fish

Rig: Heavy spinning outfit, 50 lb braid, 80 lb fluorocarbon bite leader

Key tip: Lead the school by several body lengths and keep the bait in front of the lead fish.

Fly fishing the migration

Rig: 11-12 wt fly rod, large-arbor reel, floating line

Key tip: Strip-strike hard and bow to the fish on every jump to give slack.

Beach and pier fishing at night

Rig: Heavy spinning outfit, live mullet or crab fished on the bottom or under a float near lights

Key tip: Bridge and pier lights draw tarpon after dark; keep the bait just outside the light circle where fish patrol the edge.

Sight-casting jigs and bait

Rig: 7' light spinning rod, 10 lb braid, 15 lb fluorocarbon leader

Key tip: Cast well ahead of a moving fish and let it find the bait on the bottom — never cast onto its head.

Fly fishing the flats

Rig: 8 wt fly rod, floating line, 10-12 ft leader

Key tip: Move slowly, watch for tails and muds, and strip in short bumps once the fish turns.

Wading the flats on foot

Rig: Light spinning rod with a 1/4 oz skimmer jig or live shrimp, fished while wading

Key tip: Wade slowly into the wind and watch for tails; lead a tailing fish by a metre and twitch the bait once as it closes in.

Crab fishing on the flats

Rig: 7' medium spinning rod, 20 lb braid, 30 lb fluorocarbon leader

Key tip: Lead the fish by 6-10 ft and let it tip down on the crab; do not move the bait as it approaches.

Fly fishing with crab patterns

Rig: 9-10 wt fly rod, floating line, 12 ft leader

Key tip: Cast so the fly lands softly well ahead; a permit that spooks rarely gives a second chance.

Wading for permit on foot

Rig: Medium spinning rod, small live crab on a 1/4 oz jig head or plain hook

Key tip: Spot the black tail and forked fin in the surface film; land the crab softly 6 ft ahead and let the fish find it.

Piling fishing with crabs

Rig: Light bottom rig, small strong hook (1/0), just enough split shot to hold

Key tip: Drop tight to the piling and set the hook BEFORE you feel the bite — on the first faint tap.

Jetty and reef fishing

Rig: Medium spinning outfit, short Carolina rig

Key tip: Scrape a few barnacles into the water as chum to start them feeding.

Bottom fishing with crab

Rig: Fish-finder rig, 5/0-7/0 circle hook, 2-4 oz sinker

Key tip: Fish oyster bottom on a moving tide; let circle hooks load up on their own.

Sight-casting spring schools

Rig: Medium-heavy spinning outfit, crab or large soft plastic

Key tip: Watch for tailing fish and mud boils over shallow shell on calm mornings.

Pier and beach bottom fishing

Rig: Fish-finder rig with a 5/0 circle hook and 3-5 oz sinker, cast from a pier or beach into the trough

Key tip: Fish a rising tide over oyster beds near the pier; big drum feed with their heads down, so give them time to load the rod.

Trolling Clark spoons

Rig: Light trolling outfit, #1 planer or trolling sinker, long mono leader

Key tip: Use a long, light leader — mackerel are leader-shy and razor-toothed in equal measure.

Casting Gotcha plugs from piers

Rig: 7' spinning outfit, 15 lb line, short wire or heavy mono trace

Key tip: Retrieve fast with sharp jerks; slow baits get inspected and refused.

High-low bottom rigging

Rig: Two-hook top-and-bottom rig, 1-3 oz sinker, small hooks

Key tip: Keep baits small — croaker mouths are little; a nibbled bare hook means baits too big.

Pier and surf fishing

Rig: Light spinning outfit, high-low rig fished in the trough

Key tip: Evenings and the first of the flood tide produce the steadiest action.

High-low rigs over structure

Rig: Two-hook bottom rig, 3-6 oz sinker, 3/0 hooks

Key tip: Anchor tight to the piece; sea bass hold close and the first drop often takes the biggest fish.

Jigging wrecks and reefs

Rig: Medium spinning outfit, bucktail or diamond jig tipped with squid

Key tip: Work the jig slowly just off bottom; most hits come on the first lift.

Jetty and breakwater bottom fishing

Rig: High-low rig with a 2-4 oz sinker cast to the deep side of a jetty or breakwater

Key tip: Fish the last two hours of the flood when bass push up the rock face; bring extra rigs — the rocks take their toll.

Bait fishing the banks

Rig: High-low rig with 12-20 oz sinker, 5/0 hooks, clam teasers

Key tip: Keep the rig still on bottom in the drift — haddock pick gently, so watch the rod tip and lift smoothly.

Jigging with teasers

Rig: Heavy jig with two teaser flies above it

Key tip: Work the jig in slow lifts just off bottom over gravel patches.

Fly-lining live bait

Rig: 25-40 lb outfit, live sardine on a small hook, no weight

Key tip: Pick the liveliest bait in the well — a frisky sardine outruns the school and gets bit.

Yo-yo and surface iron

Rig: 40 lb outfit, heavy yo-yo iron deep; light surface iron for boils

Key tip: On deep fish, drop to bottom and wind fast through the zone; on boils, cast past and burn it back.

Live bait from jetty tips in warm water

Rig: 30 lb shore outfit, fly-lined live sardine or mackerel on a small live-bait hook; surface iron as backup

Key tip: Only worth the effort in warm-water years when fish push onto the outer kelp; fish the deep jetty tip at dawn and keep the bait tight to the kelp edge.

Squid fishing on the beds

Rig: 30 lb outfit, dropper loop or sliding sinker, 5/0 hook

Key tip: Anchor quietly on the squid bed before dawn and wait — seabass cruise in at first light.

Casting white swimbaits

Rig: Medium-heavy baitcasting outfit, big white swimbait

Key tip: Work kelp edges slowly at grey light; most strikes come as the bait clears the kelp line.

Surf fishing the rips

Rig: Medium shore rod, 1 oz white swimbait or hard minnow cast into rips and holes in the surf

Key tip: Work the white water at dawn where a rip cuts the bar; seabass hunt bait trapped in the churn.

Drift fishing with cut shad

Rig: Santee-Cooper drift rig, 7/0-8/0 circle hook, peg float

Key tip: Drift flats and channel edges at 0.3-0.6 mph; fresh bait outfishes frozen by a wide margin.

Anchored fishing in current

Rig: Three-way or Carolina rig with 2-5 oz sinker

Key tip: Anchor above deep holes and wing dikes; give trophy fish time — big bites are slow commits.

Bank fishing big rivers

Rig: Sliding sinker rig with a 7/0-8/0 circle hook on a heavy shore rod, cast to channel edges from the bank

Key tip: Fish wing dikes, scour holes and creek mouths from the bank at night; mark the exact casting lane — blues patrol the same edges nightly.

Spider rigging and jigging brush

Rig: Light spinning rod, 1/16 oz jig or minnow rig

Key tip: Crappie feed up — keep the bait slightly above the school and hang on the thump.

Slip-float fishing the spawn

Rig: Slip float set to keep the bait just off bottom in 2-4 ft

Key tip: Cast to brush, laydowns and willow roots along sunny northern banks in spring.

Casting to surface schools

Rig: Light spinning outfit, small spoon or topwater

Key tip: Cast past the school and work the edge — the biggest fish hang below the surface frenzy.

River-run jig fishing

Rig: 1/8-1/4 oz jig with a grub, fished in current seams

Key tip: Work riffle tails and eddy lines during the spring run; expect a bite every cast at peak.

Vertical jigging in current

Rig: 1/4-3/4 oz jig tipped with a minnow, 6'3" medium spinning rod

Key tip: Hold the jig just off bottom and let the current work it — sauger pin it on the fall.

Blade bait fishing tailwaters

Rig: Vibrating blade bait ripped in short hops

Key tip: Best in cold water below dams; keep hops short and stay in contact.

Ice fishing with jigging spoons

Rig: Short ice rod, 1/4 oz jigging spoon or jig tipped with a minnow head, fished over lake basins and humps

Key tip: Fish the last hour of light over deep lake humps — on big lakes like Winnipeg sauger move up to feed at dusk.

Casting spoons and spinners

Rig: Medium spinning outfit, short wire or heavy mono leader

Key tip: Work weed edges fast — pickerel chase; a pause at the boat often draws the strike.

Live shiner under a bobber

Rig: Bobber rig with a medium shiner, wire trace

Key tip: Set the bait just over the weeds; pickerel patrol the same lanes all day.

Cut bait fishing in the weeds

Rig: Carolina rig or float rig with cut sunfish, strong hook

Key tip: Use strong hooks and line — a bowfin's bony mouth and power straighten light gear.

Casting the shallows in spring

Rig: Medium-heavy spinning outfit, spinnerbait or weedless frog

Key tip: Target nest-guarding males in 1-3 ft; expect a savage strike at the first pass.

Float fishing with worms

Rig: Tiny hook (size 8-10), split shot, small float

Key tip: Fish nest colonies in 2-5 ft in late spring — bites are instant and constant.

Micro jig casting

Rig: Ultralight rod, 1/32 oz jig or micro spinner

Key tip: Cast past the beds and retrieve slowly; big 'seeds take tiny flies with spirit.

Casting shad darts

Rig: Light spinning rod, tiny dart on a swivel, split shot to depth

Key tip: Fish the current seams and let the dart swing — shad take on the swing and the hang-down.

Anchored dart fishing (Columbia style)

Rig: Two darts on dropper lines behind a diver or weight

Key tip: Anchor in the travel lane below the dam and let the current work the darts in place.

Casting spoons in rivers

Rig: Medium spinning outfit, bright spoon or spinner

Key tip: Fish pools below rapids and falls where sea-run char stack on the migration.

Fly fishing streamers

Rig: 7-8 wt fly rod, sink-tip line, bright streamers

Key tip: Swing deep through runs at dusk — char rise late under the long northern light.

Lake fishing at inlets and shoals

Rig: Medium spinning outfit, bright spoon or small jig worked over lake shoals and stream inlets

Key tip: In big northern lakes char gather where streams enter in late summer; cast the current plume at first light.

Live shad on down-lines

Rig: Bait tank, down-lines with 1-2 oz weights over humps and channels

Key tip: Mark bait first, then set lines just above the school — stripers feed upward through shad.

Casting to surface boils

Rig: Medium-heavy spinning outfit, topwater or swimbait

Key tip: Run to working gulls and cast the edges of the boil; the biggest fish cruise the fringe.

Reservoir bank fishing with cut bait

Rig: Sliding sinker rig or live shad on a float, cast from reservoir banks and dam tailraces

Key tip: Fish below the dam and along wind-blown points at night; bank stripers push shad shallow after dark.

Jigging over banks and wrecks

Rig: 6-16 oz metal jig with a teaser hook above, on 40-50 lb braid

Key tip: Let the jig hit bottom, then lift-drop in a steady rhythm — cod often take on the fall.

Bait fishing a high-low rig

Rig: Two-hook bottom rig, 8-16 oz bank sinker, 5/0 circle hooks

Key tip: Keep the rig hard on bottom and give cod time to mouth the bait before lifting.

Jigging the water column

Rig: 8-14 oz diamond jig on 40 lb braid, short mono leader

Key tip: Count the jig down and work different depths — pollock suspend, so the school may sit 30 ft off bottom.

Harbour and shore casting

Rig: Medium spinning rod, small spoons and soft-plastic shads

Key tip: Fish the first of the flood around points and pier ends; summer pollock hunt right against the rocks.

Surf fishing with sand fleas

Rig: Two-drop pompano rig with small circle hooks, pyramid sinker to suit the surf

Key tip: Cast to the near trough first — pompano feed feet from the sand, not just beyond the breakers.

Jigging the passes

Rig: 1/4-1/2 oz banana jig tipped with shrimp, on light spinning gear

Key tip: Bounce the jig along the bottom in the current seam; pompano pick it up on the drop.

Sight-casting to floaters

Rig: Light spinning outfit, 1/0 circle hook under a small float or free-lined

Key tip: Approach quietly from down-current and land the shrimp a foot past the fish — never drop it on its head.

Working the buoy line

Rig: Medium spinning rod, soft-plastic shrimp on a light jig head

Key tip: Run the markers slowly and check every float; a 'leaf' that holds station against the tide is a fish.

Soft plastics on jig heads

Rig: 1/4-1/2 oz jig head with a 4" shad or shrimp tail, light spinning tackle

Key tip: Lift gently into the bite — a soft mouth means a hard strike tears the hook free.

Night fishing around lights

Rig: Free-lined shrimp or a small plug worked through the light line

Key tip: Weakfish hang at the edge of the light where shadow meets glare — cast across that seam.

Bottom fishing with light leaders

Rig: Knocker rig or fish-finder rig, 30-40 lb fluorocarbon — as light as the reef allows

Key tip: Muttons inspect baits; long, light leaders and a natural drift out-catch heavy tackle.

Night fishing the reef

Rig: Free-line or light egg-sinker rig fished with the current

Key tip: Anchor up-current of the reef edge and let baits sweep back naturally in the dark.

Dock and mangrove fishing

Rig: Light spinning gear, small hook free-lined or with a split shot

Key tip: Cast tight to the pilings and let the shrimp drift naturally — snapper watch from the shade.

Chumming reef snapper

Rig: 20 lb tackle, 1/0-3/0 circle hooks, minimal weight

Key tip: Chum brings wary reef fish up and feeding; hide the hook inside the bait chunk.

Chicken-rig bottom fishing

Rig: Two-hook chicken rig, 8-12 oz sinker, small circle hooks

Key tip: Small baits, small hooks — vermilion peck at big offerings and miss.

Fishing the school's level

Rig: Light jig or bait rig stopped partway down, fished off the bottom

Key tip: If the sounder shows fish 20 ft up, fish 20 ft up — the school rarely drops to the bottom.

Trolling feathers at dawn

Rig: Small feather lures trolled 6-8 knots along rips and reef edges

Key tip: Be on the spot before sunrise; the first hour is the blackfin hour.

Live-chumming the school

Rig: Light conventional gear, small circle hook through the bait's nose

Key tip: Keep a trickle of live chum going and drift your bait back with it — no weight.

Casting to the blitz

Rig: Medium spinning rod, 15-20 lb braid, small epoxy jig or metal

Key tip: Cast past the school and burn it back fast — a slow retrieve gets ignored.

Trolling the edges

Rig: Light trolling gear worked along rip lines and colour changes

Key tip: Mark every hookup and circle back — the school usually holds in the same rip.

Fly and light-tackle casting

Rig: 8-9 wt fly rod or medium spinning outfit, small baitfish imitations

Key tip: Let the school come to you — chasing bonito with the motor shuts them down.

Trolling and jigging humps

Rig: Light tackle trolled or jigged over structure in 30-60 ft

Key tip: If birds sit and stare, drop a jig — the bait, and the bonito, are underneath them.

Sabiki jigging

Rig: Sabiki rig under a small weight or torpedo sinker, light rod

Key tip: Jig gently near the bottom of the school; a loaded sabiki of mackerel is a workout on its own.

Casting to boils

Rig: Light spinning rod, 1/2 oz metal jig

Key tip: Match the hatch: when mackerel feed on krill, go tiny or go home.

Sight-casting the wash

Rig: Carolina rig with a 1/2 oz egg sinker, #4-#2 hook, 6-8 lb leader

Key tip: Walk slowly, watch the backwash, and cast ahead of cruising fish — never at them.

Soaking crab beds at high tide

Rig: Light surf outfit fished right in the wash zone

Key tip: If you can see sand-crab colonies in the backwash, corbina are near — fish the flooding tide.

Surf fishing the trough

Rig: High-low rig or Carolina rig, 2-3 oz pyramid sinker to hold in the wash

Key tip: Cast just past the first breaker and work back into the trough — that's the feeding lane.

Grubbing on light tackle

Rig: Carolina rig with a soft-plastic grub on a #6 hook, 8-10 lb gear

Key tip: Slow, steady retrieve through the foam; perch chase grubs when crabs are scarce.

Dropper-loop bottom fishing

Rig: Two dropper loops with #2-1/0 hooks above a 6-10 oz sinker

Key tip: Keep baits fresh and small; whitefish peck big squid chunks apart without hooking up.

Jigging the bank

Rig: Shrimp-fly rig or small jig worked with short hops on bottom

Key tip: Fish the up-current edge of the rock — the school feeds facing the flow.

Bottom fishing shell beds

Rig: Light line, small hook, just enough shot to sit on the shell

Key tip: If your worm isn't on the bottom, it isn't in redear water — they rarely rise for bait.

Float fishing the bed edges

Rig: Small float set so the bait ticks bottom, fished at the colony's edge

Key tip: Bed colonies have an edge line — the biggest redear hold on the outside row.

Casting the riffles

Rig: Ultralight spinning gear, small spinner or 1/32 oz jig

Key tip: Cast above the pool and swim the lure past boulders — redbreast ambush from the seams.

Fly fishing the pools

Rig: 3-4 wt fly rod, foam bugs and small poppers

Key tip: River redbreast rise eagerly in summer evenings — the most underrated dry-fly panfish in the East.

Bottom fishing the tide

Rig: Fish-finder rig with a 3/0 circle hook, weight matched to the current

Key tip: Anchor on the edge of the channel and let the tide bring the scent to the fish.

Estuary light-tackle fishing

Rig: Light spinning gear, small sliding sinker, shrimp or worm baits

Key tip: Whites feed right up into the marsh creeks on the flood — follow the tide in.

Creek casting around rock

Rig: Light casting or spinning gear, small jig or ned rig

Key tip: Cast tight to ledges and let the current sweep the bait past — river bass face upstream.

Fly fishing the runs

Rig: 5-6 wt fly rod, weighted crawfish and baitfish patterns

Key tip: Guadalupe bass crush a crawfish fly dead-drifted through a pool tail-out — sight-fishing at its best.

Finesse on the points

Rig: Light spinning gear, 1/8 oz head and a 4-5 in worm

Key tip: Spots gang up — work a productive point thoroughly before moving on.

Cranking rock

Rig: Medium casting rod, shallow crankbait banged off rock and wood

Key tip: In current, cast upstream and let the bait hunt through the seam — spots live for crayfish.

Float fishing live bait

Rig: Big float, live baitfish, heavy braid and a strong circle hook

Key tip: Let the gar carry the bait a long way before tightening — it mouths and turns the prey first.

Rope-fly fishing

Rig: Medium-heavy spinning gear, rope fly cast across cruising fish

Key tip: The fibres tangle in the needle teeth — no hook to set; keep steady pressure and net the fish fast.

Bottom fishing the channels

Rig: Slip sinker, 1/0 circle hook, nightcrawler or crayfish

Key tip: Drum bite lightly for their size — watch the line, not just the rod tip.

Jigging the shoals

Rig: Medium spinning gear, jig worked slow on bottom

Key tip: In spring you'll hear them before you see them — drum calls carry through a boat hull.

Trolling the smelt schools

Rig: Light trolling gear with spoons or tandem streamers run just under the surface in spring

Key tip: At ice-out, fish the top 10 ft near stream mouths — landlocks chase smelt in the shallows.

Casting the outlets

Rig: Light spinning or fly gear at lake outlets and feeder-stream mouths

Key tip: Work the current seam at dawn; feeding landlocked salmon show themselves with soft rises.

Dry-fly fishing alpine lakes

Rig: 3-5 wt fly rod, long light leader, small dries

Key tip: Creep up on the shore and cast from a crouch — alpine goldens spook at a skyline shadow.

Ultralight spinning

Rig: Ultralight rod, 2-4 lb line, miniature hardware

Key tip: Work inlet streams and drop-offs at dawn, before the afternoon wind ruffles the lake.

Live-baiting over structure

Rig: Heavy bottom or free-lined outfit, 80 lb leader, 7/0-9/0 circle hook

Key tip: Drop to mid-depth over the mark, not right on the bottom. Lock the drag down and move the fish away from the wreck at once.

Vertical jigging

Rig: 6-10 oz vertical jig on a heavy jigging rod, assist hooks on top

Key tip: Rip the jig up 20-30 ft and drop it back. Amberjack often hit on the fall — stay tight.

Bottom fishing hard bottom

Rig: Knocker rig or Carolina rig, 4-8 oz lead, 6/0-7/0 circle hook

Key tip: Drift slowly over pothole bottom and keep the bait right on the deck. Reds often pick it up and sit — lift firmly.

Live-baiting the ledges

Rig: Heavy bottom outfit, 60 lb leader, large circle hook

Key tip: Anchor up-current of a ledge and fish baits back along it. Give the fish a moment, then wind it clear.

Live-baiting ledges and wrecks

Rig: Heavy bottom outfit, 80 lb leader, 7/0-8/0 circle hook, fish-finder rig

Key tip: Lock the drag and wind hard from the first second — a gag that reaches its hole is usually gone.

Trolling plugs over nearshore rock (fall)

Rig: Large deep-diving plug on a heavy trolling outfit, short wire or heavy mono leader

Key tip: Troll right along the ledge edge at 4-6 knots. Mark every strike — gag hold on the same rocks all season.

Chumming and free-lining (flag fishing)

Rig: Light spinning outfit, 12-15 lb fluorocarbon, small hook or 1/8 oz jig head, no weight

Key tip: Keep the chum flowing and let the bait drift naturally with it. The big flags hang far back — use plenty of line.

Bottom jigging patch reefs

Rig: Small jig head worked just above the coral

Key tip: Fish just off the bottom to avoid snags, and keep baits small — yellowtail have small mouths.

Daytime deep-dropping

Rig: Electric or heavy manual reel, 10-15 lb breakaway weight, long leader, deep-drop light

Key tip: Keep the bait within a few feet of bottom on the canyon wall and watch the rod tip for the soft sword slap before the eat.

Night drifting

Rig: Buoyed lines set at several depths, light sticks, large circle hooks

Key tip: Spread baits from near the surface to 300 ft and drift the temperature break. Swordfish feed up the column after dark.

Deep-drop bait fishing

Rig: Electric reel, 3-5 lb weight, two-hook rig with circle hooks and a deep-drop light

Key tip: Fish muddy bottom on the slope and keep the rig right on the deck. Check baits often — sablefish mouth baits softly.

Deep jigging fjords

Rig: Heavy jig of 12-20 oz worked in long lifts just off bottom

Key tip: In northern fjords sablefish come shallower — work the jig slowly through the lowest 30 ft.

Weedless swimbaits in the kelp

Rig: 5-7 in swimbait on a weedless leadhead, heavy braid, cast into lanes and pockets

Key tip: Let it sink into the pocket, then wind slowly. Kelp bass track it out of the weeds — keep winding through the bite.

Fly-lining live bait

Rig: Small live-bait hook, no weight, bait cast to the kelp edge

Key tip: Keep the bait swimming at the edge, not in open water. Thumb the spool — the bite comes fast.

Shore casting along kelp edges

Rig: Weedless swimbait on a 1/2-3/4 oz leadhead, cast from shore rocks and beach points

Key tip: Cast parallel to the kelp line from the rocks and slow-roll it back; shore bass ambush from the first row of kelp.

Sabiki and feather rigs from piers

Rig: Multi-hook sabiki or mackerel tree under a small sinker, jigged in short lifts

Key tip: When a school passes, drop straight down and jig steadily — doubles and triples are normal. Keep a bucket ready.

Casting small jigs to schools

Rig: Small diamond jig or spoon on light spinning gear

Key tip: Cast to the edges of feeding schools marked by diving birds and retrieve fast with sharp jerks.

Chumming over mud flats

Rig: Two-hook spreader rig with small hooks, chum pot of crushed clams and mussels on the bottom

Key tip: Chum draws flounder from a wide area. Fish baits dead still on the bottom and lift slowly at the first tap.

Slow drifting channels

Rig: Light bottom rig drifted slowly across channel edges

Key tip: Keep the drift slow and the rig on the bottom. Winter flounder will not chase — the bait must come to them.

Pier and dock fishing with chum

Rig: Light bottom rig with size 6-8 hooks and a chum pot or crushed shell scattered at the pier base

Key tip: Chum a small patch beside the pier and fish baits dead still within it; pier flounder bite in short bursts as the tide turns.

Casting spoons in river bends

Rig: Medium-heavy spinning outfit, large spoon cast across current seams and deep bends

Key tip: Work the seam where fast water meets the slough mouth. Sheefish sit on the slow edge and ambush smolts crossing it.

Trolling large lakes and deltas

Rig: Spoons or swimbaits trolled along drop-offs and delta edges

Key tip: Follow bait schools on the sounder. Sheefish push bait against the delta edge at dawn and dusk.

Float fishing cut bait

Rig: Heavy outfit, large float, stout circle hook on a strong leader, bait suspended in still backwater

Key tip: Let the gar run and turn the bait before tightening up — it swallows head-first. Keep steady, heavy pressure once hooked.

Sight-fishing resting gar

Rig: Medium-heavy casting outfit, large swimbait or rope-style lure cast ahead of cruising fish

Key tip: Cast well past the fish and bring the bait across its nose. Gar follow slowly, then strike sideways — pause before you set.

Frog fishing the mats

Rig: Heavy baitcasting outfit, 65 lb braid, hollow-body frog walked over pads and mats

Key tip: Wait a full second after the blow-up before setting hard. Snakehead often miss the first strike — keep the frog moving and they come back.

Buzzbaits through cover lanes

Rig: Buzzbait or chatterbait retrieved steadily through lanes in the grass

Key tip: Fish the blow-up, then pitch a soft plastic back to the same spot — a missed fish usually eats the follow-up.

Casting to surface schools

Rig: Medium spinning or casting outfit, spoon, jig or topwater plug cast into the boil

Key tip: Do not run the boat into the school. Stop at casting range, match the shad size, and keep a second rod rigged.

Live shad over humps

Rig: Free-lined or balloon-rigged live shad over main-lake humps and flats

Key tip: Mark bait on the sounder, set baits at that depth, and stay ready — wiper packs sweep through fast.

Deep-drop bait fishing

Rig: Electric reel, 3-5 lb weight, multi-hook deep-drop rig with lights

Key tip: Drift soft mud and clay near canyon edges and stay right on the bottom. Tilefish do not move far from their burrows — mark every bite.

Deep jigging the slope

Rig: Heavy jig of 12-20 oz worked in slow lifts just above the mud

Key tip: Keep the jig in the lowest few feet and lift slowly. Tilefish hit softly for their size — wind into any extra weight.

Dry-fly fishing small streams

Rig: 3-4 wt fly rod, short light leader, small dry fly fished pool by pool

Key tip: Approach pools low and slow — Apache trout spook easily in clear water, but a clean first cast usually rises a fish.

Ultralight spinning in mountain lakes

Rig: Ultralight rod, 2-4 lb line, miniature spinner or spoon

Key tip: Work inlet mouths and shade lines early and late. Keep retrieves slow in cold water.

Float fishing plant baits

Rig: Slip float, 8-12 lb line, size 4-6 hook buried in a ball of vegetation or bread

Key tip: Chum the swim with chopped vegetation for several days — grass carp feed confidently only once a spot feels safe.

Surface freelining

Rig: Free-lined bread crust or soft fruit on a strong size 2 hook, no weight

Key tip: Cast well ahead of a cruising fish and stay still — any shadow or vibration puts them down.

Bottom fishing over shell beds

Rig: Running lead, strong size 2/0 hook, 15-25 lb line

Key tip: Fish where native mussels concentrate — black carp patrol shell beds at dusk and after dark.

Heavy carp tactics

Rig: Hair rig with a large boilie or pack-bait ball over a bed of crushed shell

Key tip: Gear up: a big black carp in current fights like a grass carp twice its size.

Suspended bait-cage rig (Chinese style)

Rig: Float rig suspending a spring bait cage with small hooks around it, fished mid-water

Key tip: Silver carp feed by filtering — keep the bait cloud rich and fish where you see rolling or jumping fish.

Float fishing paste baits

Rig: Long rod, fine line, small hook with a pea-sized soft paste ball just under a sensitive float

Key tip: Strike at the smallest dip of the float; the take is a sip, not a pull.

Suspended bait-cage rig

Rig: Float-suspended spring bait cage with small hooks, fished in the upper layers

Key tip: Bigheads sip the cloud around the cage — watch for the float lifting as much as dipping.

Surface paste fishing

Rig: Long rod, fine line, soft paste ball on a small hook fished just under the surface film

Key tip: Fish over visible cruising schools at dawn, when bigheads ride high in the water.

Traditional Chinese float fishing (taidiao)

Rig: Fine sensitive float, light line, tiny hooks, bait resting just on the bottom

Key tip: Balance the float so a lift or a dip of half a division means strike — crucian takes are famously faint.

Light feeder fishing in ponds

Rig: Small cage feeder with fine hooklengths and size 14-18 hooks

Key tip: Feed little and often to hold a shoal in the swim.

Float fishing on the drop

Rig: Sensitive float rig with shot spread down the line so the bait sinks slowly

Key tip: Bream sip baits as they fall — watch the float for a check or a lift on the drop.

Method feeder over a baited patch

Rig: Small cage feeder, fine hooklength, size 12-14 hook

Key tip: Build the swim slowly; a bream shoal feeds in turns and spooks as one.

Light lure casting

Rig: Ultralight rod, 4-6 lb line, small spoons and minnow plugs worked fast and shallow

Key tip: Cast to the edges of surface feeding frenzies and keep the lure in the top foot of water.

Live-bait float fishing

Rig: Sliding float set shallow, small live fish or shrimp on a fine hook

Key tip: Fish the seams of bays at dusk, when culters push bait against the shore.

Live-bait fishing structure

Rig: Free-lined or lightly weighted live small fish or shrimp beside rock and wood cover

Key tip: Keep the bait tight to cover and be patient — a mandarin fish inspects before it strikes.

Soft-plastic jigging

Rig: Small jig head with a 2-3 in swimbait, hopped slowly along rocky bottom

Key tip: Fish low and slow at dawn and dusk; most strikes come on the first drop beside structure.

Night ledgering

Rig: Light running lead, size 8-10 hook, bait hard on the bottom

Key tip: Yellow catfish hunt by smell after dark — fish scent-heavy baits and give the bite time to develop.

Light float over groundbait

Rig: Fine float rig fished over a small bed of crumbled groundbait at dusk

Key tip: Strike early; these little catfish swallow small hooks quickly.

Night ledgering with live bait

Rig: Heavy sliding sinker, 5/0-7/0 circle hook, live loach or small fish hard on the bottom

Key tip: Southern catfish feed almost entirely after dark - set up over a known deep hole before dusk and give a run time before tightening up.

Slow-rolled swimbaits after dark

Rig: Large soft swimbait on a heavy jig head, crawled slowly along the bottom at night

Key tip: Retrieve painfully slowly with long pauses; strikes come as a heavy, deliberate pull rather than a snap.

Stream micro-lure fishing

Rig: Ultralight rod, 2-4 lb line, tiny spoon or minnow worked across the current

Key tip: Cast upstream and retrieve just faster than the current — hook-snouts slash at lures crossing their lie.

Light fly fishing

Rig: Short light fly rod or fine float rod, small nymphs and dries

Key tip: Work pool tails and seams at first light, when the fish rise freely.

Bottom fishing in current

Rig: Running lead heavy enough to hold in the flow, strong size 4-6 hook

Key tip: Fish the seam between fast and slow water where barbels rest and feed.

Float fishing deep runs

Rig: Heavy float trotted through deep runs with the bait near the bottom

Key tip: Feed the swim with crumbled bait and fish it at dawn, when barbel feed confidently.

Casting spoons over open water

Rig: Light spinning rod, metal spoons and jigs cast to feeding signs

Key tip: Follow the birds and the baitfish — redfins hunt in packs and compete for the lure.

Live-bait float fishing

Rig: Sliding float, small live fish suspended in mid-water

Key tip: Set the bait at the depth of the baitfish schools, not on the bottom.

Float fishing the runs

Rig: Trotting float rig with bait tripping along the bottom of gravel runs

Key tip: Fish the run at first light and mend the line to keep a natural drift.

Light lure and fly

Rig: Ultralight lure rod or fly rod with small nymphs and streamers

Key tip: Barbel chub rise to insects in summer — a small dry fly over a run can outfish bait.

Night lure fishing

Rig: Light shore rod, small minnow plugs and soft shads worked slowly around lights and current seams

Key tip: Fish the shadow lines of bridges and harbour lights — seabass wait there for the tide to deliver bait.

Live prawn under a float

Rig: Float rig with a live prawn suspended over reef or channel edges

Key tip: Let the tide walk the float along the structure, and strike only when it buries.

Boat seabass casting

Rig: Boat casting outfit, minnow plugs, vibration baits and metal jigs worked around bridge pilings and sea walls

Key tip: Cast tight to the structure and work the shadow line; boat seabass hold on the same pilings shore anglers cannot reach.

Rock float fishing (iso style)

Rig: Sensitive float rig with groundbait of crumbled krill and bread, fished close to the rocks

Key tip: Feed little and often to draw fish up from the reef, and fish lighter than feels brave — big kurodai live in the snags.

Ledgering shellfish baits

Rig: Light running lead, small strong hook buried in shellfish meat

Key tip: Bites are crushing pick-ups; wait for the second, committed pull before striking.

Seawall drop fishing (otoshi-komi)

Rig: Short rod and small crab or shellfish bait lowered straight down the face of a seawall or breakwater

Key tip: Walk the wall slowly and lower the bait through every crack and shadow — black seabream graze the wall face itself.

Shore float fishing

Rig: Float rig fished over sand-and-reef edges with a trickle of groundbait

Key tip: Winter fish feed in short bursts around the tide turn — stay ready then.

Light ledgering over sand

Rig: Light running lead, metre-long hooklength, small strong hook

Key tip: Use a long trace: seabream mouths are small and they drop a bait that feels anchored.

Tenya fishing

Rig: Weighted tenya jig-head with a whole prawn, fished on a slow lift-and-fall from a boat

Key tip: Most hits come as the tenya sinks — keep a finger on the line and strike at any check.

Boat ledgering over reef

Rig: Two-hook flapper or running lead over rough ground

Key tip: Anchor on the reef edge and let the tide carry scent back into the ground.

Casting metal jigs

Rig: Shore or boat casting rod, metal jig ripped fast through bait schools

Key tip: Speed triggers the strike — if follows are half-hearted, retrieve faster, not slower.

Trolling spoons and feathers

Rig: Trolling rod, spoons and feather rigs worked along tide lines

Key tip: Use a wire or heavy leader trace — seerfish teeth cut mono cleanly.

Night fishing under lights

Rig: Float or free-lined bait strip fished in the lit water at piers and bridges

Key tip: Hairtails slash baits to pieces — use a short wire trace and strike quickly.

Deep jigging by day

Rig: Slow-pitch jig worked through the depths by day, glow lures after dark

Key tip: Find the depth of the school on the sounder and keep the jig in it.

Boat bottom fishing

Rig: Two-hook bottom rig over mud and sand at 20-60 m

Key tip: Croakers feed in loose schools — once you find one, stay on the mark.

Estuary ledgering

Rig: Running lead in estuary channels, baited with prawn or worm

Key tip: Fish the last of the ebb, when croakers drop into the channel to feed.

Baited sabiki-style rigs

Rig: String of small baited hooks lowered to the bottom from a boat

Key tip: When the school is under the boat, fish come two and three at a time — keep the rig moving gently.

Light bottom ledgering

Rig: Light running lead, small hooks, bait hard on the mud

Key tip: Fish the edges of the channel where the tide slows over the mud.

Rock lure fishing

Rig: Light rock-game rod, small jig heads and soft plastics worked tight to the reef

Key tip: Work the bait down the reef face at dusk; rockfish lunge from holes and vanish back into them.

Breakwater bait fishing

Rig: Float or light ledger rig dropped beside tetrapods and boulders

Key tip: Fish vertically into the gaps — that is where the fish live.

Boat fishing over reefs

Rig: Boat rod with a down-shot or live-bait rig fished vertically over offshore reefs

Key tip: Drop straight onto the reef marks on the sounder; boat rockfish bite best on the first drop before the school scatters.

Live-bait ledgering over reef

Rig: Running lead with a live prawn or small fish, fished tight to rough ground

Key tip: Strike and lift immediately — a grouper's first run is for its hole.

Rock fishing with prawns

Rig: Float or free-lined prawn worked along rock walls and armour

Key tip: Dawn and dusk bring groupers out to hunt the edges of the reef.

Float fishing bread baits

Rig: Fine float rig with small hooks and bread flake or dough, fished over a groundbaited patch

Key tip: Mullet mouths are tiny and bites shy — scale down hooks and watch the float like a hawk.

Harbour freelining

Rig: Free-lined bread crust or algae bait drifted with the current in harbours and basins

Key tip: Feed a slow trickle of mashed bread to switch a cruising school on.

Night bottom ledgering with live bait

Rig: Sliding sinker rig with a 2/0-4/0 circle hook, live bait pinned on bottom

Key tip: Set up before dark on a known deep hole, give the fish time to take, and use a bite alarm or loose drag.

Soft-bait lure along banks

Rig: Weighted soft shad or worm on a jig head, crawled slowly along banks and structure at night

Key tip: Retrieve painfully slowly with long pauses; the take is a heavy, deliberate pull.

Stream fly fishing

Rig: Light fly rod, floating line and small dry flies and nymphs, sizes 14-18

Key tip: Fish pools and riffle tails, drop a fly size after a refusal, and keep only fish you are certain are this species and in season.

Micro spoon lure

Rig: Ultralight spinning rod with tiny silver spoons on 4 lb line

Key tip: Cast across pools and retrieve slowly just under the surface.

Small-hook bait fishing in streams and lakes

Rig: Light float rig with size 10-14 hooks and small baits in moderate current or lake shallows

Key tip: Keep baits in mid-water where the schools travel and loose-feed a little to hold them.

Ice fishing

Rig: Short ice rod, fine line and tiny jigs or hooks over lake flats

Key tip: Work several holes over flats and jig gently just off bottom.

Spoon and minnow casting along edges

Rig: Medium spinning rod, wire or heavy fluorocarbon leader, casting spoons and minnow plugs parallel to weed edges

Key tip: Cast tight to the weeds and pause on the retrieve — Amur pike often hit as the lure restarts.

Ice fishing with tip-ups and live bait

Rig: Tip-ups or ice rods over shallow weedy bays, live baitfish set just above the weeds

Key tip: Set baits at several depths along the edge and stay quiet on clear ice; pike cruise the same edges all winter.

Tomozuri decoy fishing

Rig: Light stream rod, fine line, a live ayu on a fine circle-style hook rigged to swim naturally over a territory

Key tip: Work the decoy slowly across algae rocks; the territory holder attacks the intruder and hooks itself — where local rules allow this method.

Tenkara and fly fishing

Rig: Tenkara or light fly rod, small weighted nymphs and wet flies dead-drifted in the runs

Key tip: Drift the fly tight to the stones at dawn and dusk, when ayu leave their territories and take insects.

Small-hook bait fishing

Rig: Light float rig with size 12-16 hooks and tiny baits in slow runs and lake margins

Key tip: Keep the bait in mid-water and loose-feed sparingly to hold the school.

Ice fishing

Rig: Short ice rod, fine line and tiny jigs over Ulungur Lake flats

Key tip: Jig gently just off bottom and move holes until a school is found.

Light stream float drift fishing

Rig: Short light rod, fine float, small split shot and a size 12-16 hook drifted through pools

Key tip: Drift the bait tight past boulders and pool tails; bites are quick, so keep slack line to a minimum.

Fly fishing over rock pools

Rig: Light fly rod with small nymphs and dry flies, sizes 14-18

Key tip: Work the calm rock pools at dawn and dusk and let the fly rest before moving it.

Iso rock fishing with float rigs

Rig: Long iso rod, semi-fixed float rig with shrimp or crab, groundbait of krill and shellfish to draw fish up

Key tip: Use strong hooks — the beak crushes light wire — and keep the bait drifting naturally just above the reef.

Bottom fishing small crab over reef

Rig: Short, strong bottom rig fished tight to boulders with a whole small crab

Key tip: Fish the wash zone at dawn; hold the rod ready, as a big knifejaw dives straight for the reef on the take.

Taiwan-style float fishing on the bottom

Rig: 台钓 float rig with fine line and small hooks, grass/herb dough pinched on the hook, fished hard on the bottom over a baited area

Key tip: Build the swim with grain chum and strike at the slightest lift of the float — breams test the bait before eating.

Traditional float fishing over deep edges

Rig: Long rod with a traditional float rig fished over deep edges and slow bends, bait just on the bottom

Key tip: Fish the last two hours of light, when schools slide up the edge to feed.

Frog-lure surface casting (打黑)

Rig: Medium-heavy rod, weedless soft frog cast onto matted cover and worked back with pauses

Key tip: Let the fish take the frog under before striking hard — a one-second pause converts far more surface hits.

Live-bait bobber fishing

Rig: Bobber rig with a live small fish or loach set just above weed beds

Key tip: Fish tight to cover at dawn; snakeheads rarely chase baits far into open water.

Corn and dough ledgering in streams

Rig: Light ledger or running-sinker rig on a stream rod, small strong hook baited with corn or dough, cast into rocky runs

Key tip: Keep the bait hard on the bottom in the current seam and use the lightest weight that holds.

Float fishing over rocky runs

Rig: Stream float rig with fine line and small hook, trotted over rock and gravel runs so the bait grazes the bottom

Key tip: Set the float so the bait just ticks the rocks — that is exactly where the labeo feeds.

Stream-side small-rod bottom fishing

Rig: Short light rod, small sinker and size 8-12 hook tight to bankside cover

Key tip: Drop the bait right beside stones, roots and undercuts and wait — sleepers rarely chase, they ambush.

Live-bait still fishing in ponds

Rig: Float or sinker rig with a small live shrimp or fish in pond corners

Key tip: Fish it static in the weedy corners at dusk and give the fish time to turn the bait before striking.

Small spinner and soft-bait lure fishing

Rig: Light spinning rod, small spinners, 1-2 in soft plastics on light jig heads worked along weed edges

Key tip: Keep moving until a school is found — perch are competitive and one fish usually means many.

Ice jigging

Rig: Short ice rod, small jig or spoon tipped with maggots or a fish eye, jigged over wintering holes

Key tip: Drill several holes along a drop-off and fish each briefly; perch schools roam and reward mobile anglers.

River and canal dropshot

Rig: Light spinning rod, dropshot or small jig worked along canal walls, lock gates and river margins

Key tip: Perch patrol canal walls and bridge shadows; cast tight to the wall and work the lure back along it.

Rock and raft fishing with shrimp

Rig: Light rock rod or raft rod, small bottom rig with shrimp over reef edge

Key tip: Keep the bait tight to the structure and lift fast on the bite before it wedges in the rocks.

Light jigging over reef

Rig: Light jigging rod, 7-20 g jig or soft plastic worked just above the reef

Key tip: Fish the jig slow and close to bottom — greenling ambush from crevices, not open water.

Surf casting from beaches

Rig: Surf rod, running-sinker rig with live shrimp or worm cast beyond the breakers

Key tip: Fish gutters and holes along the beach at dawn and on a rising tide.

Boat live-shrimp fishing in estuaries

Rig: Light boat rod, free-lined or lightly weighted live shrimp drifted along channel edges

Key tip: Let the shrimp drift naturally with the current — threadfin spook at heavy, dragging rigs.

Ledgering corn in fast current

Rig: Running or fixed lead heavy enough to hold on the stream bed, strong size 6-8 hook on a short hooklink

Key tip: Cast into the seam beside the main flow, keep the line tight and strike at the first firm pull.

Float fishing live bait in stream pools

Rig: Stream float rig with shot spread to drift the bait naturally through the pool

Key tip: Trot the float down the pool tail at dawn; barbel take confidently before the sun hits the water.

Rock fishing with live shrimp

Rig: Float or light ledger rig presenting a live shrimp just above reef ledges from the rocks

Key tip: Keep the bait inches above the snags; strike instantly and lift hard — a grouper reaches its hole in a second.

Boat jigging and bottom fishing over reef

Rig: Small jigs or a paternoster with shrimp and fish baits worked tight over reef marks

Key tip: Fish vertically over the mark and wind up fast for the first ten turns to clear the reef.

Sabiki rig jigging

Rig: Light rod, multi-hook sabiki rig with a small weight or cage, jigged gently beside pier legs and under lights

Key tip: Jig in short lifts and let the rig flutter down — a hooked fish shaking the rig draws the whole school in.

Night light fishing with tiny shrimp

Rig: Small float or light bottom rig under pier lights, tiny pieces of shrimp on small hooks

Key tip: Fish where the light circle meets shadow; the school holds at the edge and picks off baits drifting through.

Boat sabiki fishing

Rig: Sabiki rig under a basket or with a small sinker, fished from a boat over reef edges

Key tip: Keep the rig at the depth of the school on the sounder and jig gently — the chum basket does the attracting.

Shore jigging with metal jigs

Rig: Long shore-casting rod, 20-40 g metal jig ripped fast from rocks and breakwaters

Key tip: Retrieve fast with sharp jerks; use a short wire trace against the teeth.

Boat trolling

Rig: Trolling rod, spoons and minnow plugs worked along tide lines at moderate speed

Key tip: Follow working birds and surface bait — the school is usually just below.

Night bottom fishing with live bait

Rig: Heavy sliding-sinker rig, 4/0-6/0 circle hook and live bait on bottom in deep pools

Key tip: Set up at dusk on a deep gorge pool outside any protected zone and let the fish take fully before tightening up.

Heavy ledgering at deep gorge pools

Rig: Strong ledger rig anchored in the deepest gorge holes

Key tip: Keep the bait hard on bottom in the deepest water and wait out the long gaps between takes.

Rapid-water lure casting

Rig: Heavy spinning outfit, 20-30 lb braid, big spoon or deep plug cast across the heads of rapids and retrieved through the seams

Key tip: Let the lure swing in the current before retrieving — mahseer strike as it lifts out of the fast water.

Live-bait ledgering for big fish

Rig: Running ledger rig with a strong hook and a live small fish or large snail bait, fished in the deep pool below a rapid

Key tip: Fish at dusk and give a taking fish a moment before striking; use tackle strong enough to stop the first downstream run.

Small-hook dough float fishing at piers

Rig: Light float rig, tiny size 12-16 hooks, pea-sized dough or algae bait fished beside pier legs

Key tip: Chum lightly with crumbled dough; spinefoot bite in quick pecks, so strike fast and lift clear of the school.

Light float rigs over reef flats

Rig: Long light rod, small float set to fish just above the reef, algae or shrimp bait

Key tip: Fish a rising tide in the morning; keep the bait moving slowly over the flat so the school follows it up.

台钓 small-hook fine-line fishing

Rig: Delicate float rig, size 8-12 fine-wire hooks and 2-4 lb hooklengths, peanut-bran dough fished hard on the bottom

Key tip: Mud carp mouth the bait without moving the float much — watch for tiny trembles and strike gently.

Bottom fishing over baited spots

Rig: Light ledger or float-ledger over a spot prepared with bran and peanut cake, small dough balls on fine hooks

Key tip: Build the spot for an hour before fishing in earnest; shoals arrive and feed in waves.

Boat trolling

Rig: Trolling rod, diving minnows and spoons worked along reef edges and current lines

Key tip: Use a wire trace and keep speed up — commerson mackerel hit fast-moving lures hardest.

Shore casting big minnows and jigs

Rig: Heavy shore-casting rod, large minnows and metal jigs cast from points and breakwaters

Key tip: Cast at first light when fish push bait against the shore; retrieve fast and erratic.

Iso float fishing with krill paste

Rig: Iso rod, small float rig with krill-paste bait and matching groundbait drifted through the wash

Key tip: Keep groundbait and hookbait drifting together at the same depth — nibblers reject anything that moves differently.

Light rock float rigs

Rig: Light float rig, small hooks and fine leader fished over algae-covered rock

Key tip: Strike at the first dip of the float — the bite is a nibble, not a pull.

台钓 dough-bait float fishing

Rig: Fine float rig with two small hooks, flavoured dough balls on a prepared baited spot, fished on or just off the bottom

Key tip: Feed the spot little and often; tilapia bites are a small lift or dip of the float — strike at the first clear movement.

Nest-sight fishing

Rig: Light spinning or pole outfit with a tiny hook and small dough ball or worm, presented into nest pits in warm shallows

Key tip: In spring, drop the bait into the pale round nest pits; the guarding male usually takes within moments.

Stream fly and small spoon drift fishing

Rig: Ultralight rod or light fly rod, tiny spoons and small flies drifted and swung through riffles

Key tip: Cast across and let the lure swing in the current; chub slash at it as it turns downstream.

Light float fishing with maggot and dough

Rig: Fine float rig with size 16-20 hooks, maggots or pea-sized dough trotted through pool heads

Key tip: Feed a few free offerings into the drift and strike quickly — chub take and eject fine baits in a flash.

Heavy night ledgering

Rig: Heavy running-sinker rig on a wire leader, whole fish strips cast to reef edges at night

Key tip: Use wire — teeth cut mono instantly. Strike firmly and keep steady pressure; the eel twists to wrap the line.

Pier bottom fishing

Rig: Strong pier rig dropped straight down beside piles and breakwater rocks after dark

Key tip: Fish the shadow line of pier lights where hunting eels patrol; lift fish clear quickly with a drop net.

Spring shore float fishing

Rig: Delicate float rig with small hooks and pea-sized dough baits, fished mid-water over estuary shallows

Key tip: Chum sparingly with bran; mullet sip baits gently — strike at the smallest float movement.

Light surf casting

Rig: Light surf or spinning outfit with a small bombarda or float rig cast to cruising schools

Key tip: Cast ahead of a moving school and retrieve very slowly through them.

Small-hook float fishing mid-water

Rig: Light float rig with fine line and a size 14-18 hook, bait set mid-water over open lake water

Key tip: Chum lightly with bran or rice and keep the bait moving slowly — sharpbelly lose interest in a static bait.

Micro spoon lure fishing

Rig: Ultralight rod, 2-4 lb line and a 1-2 g spoon retrieved steadily just under the surface

Key tip: Cast to dimpling schools at dawn; a fast, shallow retrieve draws instant strikes.

台钓 bottom and float fishing

Rig: Taiwan-style 台钓 rig: fine float, light leads and size 8-12 hooks just on bottom

Key tip: Keep the bait right on the hard bottom and re-bait often — scrapers mouth the bait delicately.

Traditional float fishing in slow bends

Rig: Long float rod, fine float and small hook presented in slow river bends

Key tip: Fish the inside of the bend where the current eases and food film collects on stones.

Small frog and spoon lures in small waters

Rig: Light spinning rod, small surface frogs and spoons cast tight to cover in pools and pond corners

Key tip: Work slowly at dusk and pause beside cover — the strike is an explosive swirl in tiny water.

Night fishing with live bait

Rig: Light bottom or float rig with a live loach or small fish set beside cover after dark

Key tip: Fish quietly with a dim light; small snakehead hunt confidently at night in warm months.

Big-water bottom fishing for giants

Rig: Heavy sliding-sinker rig, 6/0-8/0 circle hook and a whole live fish bait on bottom

Key tip: Fish the deepest holes at night, use heavy gear and a secure rod rest, and let a big fish move off fully before tightening up.

Heavy ledgering at deep holes

Rig: Strong ledger rig with a large scented fish chunk anchored in deep holes

Key tip: Keep the bait hard on bottom in the deepest water and wait — takes can be long apart but are rarely small fish.

Boat string-hook (sabiki-style) shrimp rigs

Rig: Light boat rod, string of small hooks baited with shrimp bits, fished on muddy bottom

Key tip: Drop to bottom, lift slowly — a school under the boat gives a bite on nearly every drop.

Light bottom fishing

Rig: Two-hook light bottom rig with small shrimp baits over sand-mud at 10-40 m

Key tip: Use the lightest lead that holds bottom; the bite is a soft, quick tap.

Small-lure stream casting

Rig: Light spinning outfit, small spoons and 2-3 in soft swimbaits worked along boulders and pool tails

Key tip: Cast tight to rocks and retrieve slowly; most takes come on the first pass through a pool — release stream fish.

Live shrimp ledgering

Rig: Light ledger or float rig with a live river shrimp beside rock cover in pools

Key tip: Fish dawn and dusk; keep shrimp alive and close to cover, and handle fish gently for release.

Small-hook shrimp float fishing tight to pier walls

Rig: Light float rig dropped straight down the pier face, small strong hook with a pea-sized piece of shrimp

Key tip: Keep the bait within inches of the wall and strike quickly — scats nibble and drop baits fast. Unhook with pliers, never bare-handed near the dorsal fin.

Light float fishing at mangrove edges

Rig: Light float rig with fine line fished along mangrove roots and estuary edges on a rising tide

Key tip: Follow the tide in — scats push up with the water to graze newly covered roots and rock.

Micro spoon and fly stream fishing

Rig: Ultralight rod, 2-4 lb line, 1-3 g spoon or a small wet fly cast across pools and runs

Key tip: Retrieve just faster than the current and pause at boulders — horsemouths slash at lures crossing their lie.

Light float drift fishing

Rig: Fine float rig drifted through pool tails with a tiny hook and dough or maggot bait

Key tip: Keep the bait moving in the drift; a static bait is ignored by these sight hunters.

Stream drift fishing with algae and dough

Rig: Fine float rig drifted along rock faces, tiny hook baited with green algae or a pinhead of dough

Key tip: Present the bait right against the rock where the shoal is grazing, and keep your shadow off the water.

Fly and micro tackle over rock faces

Rig: Ultralight or fly tackle with a tiny nymph or algae-fly worked slowly across sunlit boulder faces

Key tip: Fish at midday when shoals move onto the faces to graze in the sun; strikes are visual — watch the fish turn.

Stream small-hook bottom fishing

Rig: Short light rod, tiny split shot and size 12-16 hook resting among rocks

Key tip: Keep the bait down in the pockets behind boulders; torrent fish dart out, take and return fast.

Light float drift, Acrossocheilus style

Rig: Fine float rig drifted through runs and pool tails, as for banded barbel

Key tip: Drift naturally with the current and strike at the first dip — these fish mouth baits quickly.

Still-water bottom fishing with corn and bread

Rig: Ledger or method-feeder rig on a clear spot beside weeds, baited with corn, bread or small pellets in European carp style

Key tip: Pre-bait a clear patch at dawn for several days; tench are shy and visit baited spots early before other fish arrive.

Float fishing at dawn near weed

Rig: Light float rig laid overdepth beside reed and lily edges, bait resting on the bottom

Key tip: Watch for the classic tench bubbles and tiny float lifts at first light; strike at the second, firmer movement.

Ice fishing with small baits

Rig: Short ice rod, fine line and a small jig or hook with tiny baits over deep water

Key tip: Jig gently just off bottom and watch for the softest lifts; confirm the local season is open before drilling.

Spoon lure in open water

Rig: Light spinning rod casting small silver spoons along channel edges

Key tip: Retrieve steadily in mid-water where schools travel; dawn and dusk are the best windows.

Stream drift fishing with shrimp and dough

Rig: Light stream float rig, fine line and small hook drifted through pool tails and boulder pockets

Key tip: Drift the bait right along the rocks — barbels pick food off the stone faces.

Small-hook float fishing in pools

Rig: Fine float rig set so the bait sinks slowly through the pool, small hook and light line

Key tip: Fish the calm pool corners at midday when the sun warms the stones and the fish feed openly.

台钓 bottom fishing

Rig: Fine float rig fished on the bottom over a lightly baited spot, herb-flavoured dough on small hooks

Key tip: Wuchang bites lift the float slowly — wait for a steady rise before striking.

Float fishing over weed edges

Rig: Traditional float rig set just off bottom along weed edges, small dough or corn baits

Key tip: Fish the first and last hours of light when shoals move inshore to graze.

Boat bottom fishing

Rig: Boat ledger rig with two hooks above a sinker, fished over sandy-mud marks

Key tip: Anchor up-tide of the mark and let scent trail down; bites improve sharply after dark.

Night surf and rock bottom fishing

Rig: Running-sinker bottom rig cast from shore or rocks at night onto mixed ground

Key tip: Fish the first two hours of darkness on a rising tide — drums move inshore to feed.

Big-lure casting

Rig: Heavy lure rod, large topwater plugs, glide baits and 6-10 in swimbaits cast along dam faces and deep points

Key tip: Work dawn and dusk when yellowcheek push baitfish up; keep retrieves fast and steady — this fish out-swims slow lures.

Live-bait ledgering at reservoirs

Rig: Strong ledger or float rig with a large live baitfish on a stout single hook, fished in deep reservoir water

Key tip: Give a taking fish a moment before striking; use heavy tackle — a hooked yellowcheek makes long, unstoppable first runs.

台钓 bottom fishing over a baited spot

Rig: 台钓 rod, fine float rig with tiny hooks, bait just touching bottom over a groundbaited mud flat

Key tip: Build the spot with scraping-type groundbait and wait for the school to arrive in waves; bites are small lifts and dips of the float.

Traditional float fishing with scraping baits

Rig: Light float rod fished over algae and mud with algae-rich paste baits

Key tip: Fish early morning over a pre-baited slope; keep feed going little and often to hold the school.

Soft-bait jigging on depth breaks

Rig: Medium spinning rod, 3-5 in shad soft plastic on a jig head, cast to the break and hopped back at dusk

Key tip: Fish the last hour of light into darkness — the classic zander window — and keep the bait close to the bottom.

Trolling minnow plugs

Rig: Medium trolling rod, shallow- to medium-diving minnow plugs trolled slowly along channel edges at night

Key tip: Use a depth counter or leadcore to hold the plug just above the break; most hits come on the turn.

Wharf sabiki during the run

Rig: Light rod with a sabiki rig of tiny hooks jigged at wharves and river mouths during the spring gaspereau run

Key tip: Jig gently in the school as fish push in on the tide — check local seasons and limits for gaspereau first.

Dip-netting legal runs

Rig: Where the traditional fishery is open, a long-handled dip net worked at river mouths and fishways during the run

Key tip: Fish only in open seasons and licensed areas; this historic Maritime fishery is tightly regulated.

Small jigs during the fall run

Rig: Light spinning rod, small baited jigs fished slowly in delta channels and river mouths during the fall run

Key tip: Time the fall run — schools are dense in the channels and bites are steady while fish pass.

Tiny spoons in coastal rivers

Rig: Light spinning rod, tiny spoons cast and retrieved slowly in lower river reaches in fall

Key tip: Keep lures small and fish them slowly; Arctic cisco have soft mouths, so play them gently.

Ice jigging through sea ice

Rig: Short ice rod or hand line, small jig lowered through an ice hole over coastal flats

Key tip: Fish close to shore over shallow flats — Arctic cod school under the ice near communities.

Summer shore and boat jigging

Rig: Light spinning rod, small metal jig or baited hook worked over sand and gravel in bays

Key tip: Keep jigs small — this is a small-mouthed, small-bodied cod.

Deep-water bait bottom fishing

Rig: Heavy boat rod, 50-80 lb braid, spreader rig with a large circle hook and whole herring or mackerel anchored on the bottom

Key tip: Anchor on channel edges in tidal current and keep baits still on the bottom — halibut find bait by scent.

Jigging with large metal and soft jigs

Rig: Heavy jigging rod, 8-16 oz metal jigs or large soft plastics lifted and dropped slowly over bank edges and slopes

Key tip: Work jigs in contact with the bottom and set at any resistance — strikes often come on the fall.

Ice fishing with baited micro-hooks

Rig: Short ice rod or hand line, tiny hooks with small pieces of shrimp or worm, fished just off bottom through the ice

Key tip: At Sainte-Anne-de-la-Pérade, fish the tidal channels and keep baits small — tomcod have small mouths.

Wharf and shore bait fishing

Rig: Light spinning rod, small sinker and size 6-10 hooks baited with clam or shrimp, fished on the bottom in estuaries

Key tip: Fish a rising tide at river mouths and move if bites stop — schools drift with the current.

Night bottom fishing

Rig: Medium-light rod, slip-sinker rig with worms or liver resting on muddy bottom after dark

Key tip: Fish after sunset in warm shallows — black bullhead feed boldly at night and bite hard.

Float fishing weedy shallows

Rig: Light rod, small hook under a float at the edge of weeds in spring

Key tip: Keep the bait just off bottom in 2-5 ft of water where bullhead cruise in spring.

Ice jigging under the ice

Rig: Short ice rod, small jigs or tiny spoons jigged near bottom over deep delta channels and lakes

Key tip: Fish close to the bottom — broad whitefish feed on the bottom, so keep the jig just above it.

Small baited hooks in fall rivers

Rig: Light spinning rod, small hooks or tiny spinners tipped with bait in slow river stretches during fall runs

Key tip: Fish slow, deep holes in fall; bites are delicate, so set the hook early.

Spring-night bottom fishing

Rig: Medium-light rod, slip-sinker rig with worms or chicken liver on muddy bottom after dark

Key tip: Fish warm spring evenings — the bullhead run bites best in the first hours of darkness.

Float fishing pond shallows

Rig: Light rod, small hook under a float in weedy pond shallows

Key tip: Set the bait just off bottom in 2-6 ft and watch for the float sliding away steadily.

Micro-hook riffle fishing

Rig: Ultralight rod, size 16-20 hook with a tiny bit of worm or dough drifted through shallow riffles

Key tip: Drift the bait right over the gravel where rollers graze — bites are tiny plucks in the current.

Tiny nymph in runs

Rig: Light fly rod, tiny nymphs dead-drifted through rocky runs and riffle tails

Key tip: Keep the nymph near bottom in bright, shallow water and watch for a flash as a roller turns.

Ice jigging for tullibee

Rig: Light ice rod, small jig or tiny spoon jigged mid-depth over deep shoals, often with a flasher

Key tip: Fish suspended schools — cisco roam mid-water under the ice, so work the jig through the whole column.

Open-water small-jig fishing

Rig: Light spinning rod, micro jigs or small spoons cast or vertical-jigged over deep shoals in fall

Key tip: Target cooling fall shoals at dawn; bites are light, so watch the line closely.

Micro-hook school fishing

Rig: Ultralight or tanago rod, size 18-26 hooks with a pinhead of bread or worm over a visible school

Key tip: Sight-fish the school at a creek mouth — chum lightly and keep the bait drifting at mid-depth.

Small dry-fly fishing

Rig: Light fly rod, tiny dry flies cast to rising schools in slow runs

Key tip: Cast ahead of the school and let the fly sit — shiners sip small dries on calm evenings.

Micro-hook bait fishing

Rig: Ultralight rod, size 14-20 hook with a tiny piece of worm under a small float or free-lined in pools

Key tip: Use the smallest hook you own — chubs nip, so keep baits tiny and watch for the lightest tap.

Dry-fly creek fishing

Rig: Light fly rod or tenkara, small dry flies and nymphs cast to pool heads and undercut banks

Key tip: Creek chubs rise freely to dry flies in summer — a perfect, forgiving first fly target.

Wharf bait fishing

Rig: Medium-light rod, hi-lo rig with small strong hooks size 4-6 and clam or shrimp, dropped straight down wharves

Key tip: Set the hook at the first touch — cunner pick and spit bait in seconds.

Rocky shore bottom fishing

Rig: Spinning rod, single hook above a bottom sinker with crab or clam, cast into pockets between rocks and kelp

Key tip: Fish tight to structure and expect to rebait often — these fish clean hooks fast.

Small spinner in runs

Rig: Light spinning rod, small spinners and spoons cast across riffles and pool tails

Key tip: Retrieve steadily through the current seam — fallfish hit like trout and fight well on light tackle.

Fly fishing — dry and wet

Rig: Light fly rod, dry flies and wet flies drifted through pools and runs

Key tip: Present a dry fly over a pool tail at dusk; fallfish rise freely and are a fine training trout substitute.

Light bottom fishing in sandy runs

Rig: Light rod, small sinker and a size 12-14 hook with a worm bit, held in sandy runs and seams

Key tip: Keep the bait pinned in the seam behind a sandbar — flathead chub feed right in the current.

Drifted nymphs and wet flies

Rig: Light fly or spinning rod with a small nymph drifted through channel-edge runs

Key tip: Drift tight to the channel edge where turbid flow concentrates food.

Shoreline identification after die-offs

Rig: No rod needed — examine winter-killed fish on lower Great Lakes shorelines to learn the dorsal filament and shoulder spot

Key tip: Photograph and compare the elongated last dorsal ray; do not collect where rules forbid it.

Netted bait where legal

Rig: Where regulations allow, a cast net or dip net in harbours takes shad for cut bait; check local rules first

Key tip: Honest method only: this fish does not bite. Always confirm netting and bait use are legal in your water.

Tiny-hook bait fishing

Rig: Ultralight rod, size 18-24 hook with a pea of bread dough under a micro float at weed edges

Key tip: Fish the bait mid-depth beside weeds — golden shiners are shy, so keep movements quiet and hooks tiny.

Micro fly fishing

Rig: Light fly rod, tiny dry flies and nymphs cast to cruising schools in quiet bays

Key tip: Cast ahead of a moving school and let the fly sit still; takes are gentle sips.

Light bait fishing in eddies

Rig: Light spinning rod, small hook under a slip float or lightly weighted, fished in eddies and seams

Key tip: Keep the bait small and near the surface in turbid water — goldeye feed up and shy from heavy rigs.

Fly fishing at dusk

Rig: Light fly rod, floating line, small dry flies or nymphs cast to rising fish

Key tip: Watch for dimpling rises at dusk along current seams and match small insects.

Bottom jigging from a boat

Rig: Medium boat rod, metal jig or jig tipped with capelin worked just off rocky bottom in inshore bays

Key tip: Keep the jig within a foot or two of bottom and lift slowly — these cod feed low and inshore.

Bait fishing from shore and wharves

Rig: Medium surf or pier rod, baited bottom rig with clam, squid or fish strips cast from rocky shore or a wharf

Key tip: Fish the deepest water you can reach from shore at high tide, when cod move in to feed.

Creek micro fishing

Rig: Ultralight rod, tiny float or split shot and a size 16-18 hook with a worm bit, in creek pools

Key tip: Fish the quiet pool tails — lake chub hold where the riffle slows.

Small fly and nymph fishing

Rig: Light fly rod or spinning rod with a small nymph drifted through upland pools

Key tip: Keep presentations tiny and natural; these are wary, quick minnows.

Bottom fishing in big-river runs

Rig: Medium rod, sliding sinker and a worm on a medium hook, fished in deep runs and eddies

Key tip: Fish at dusk in deep eddies — largescale suckers feed confidently after dark.

Spring gravel-shallow fishing

Rig: Float or light bottom rig with dough bait over gravel shallows during the spawn

Key tip: Target the spring spawning shallows where fish gather densely and bite readily.

Ice jigging with tiny jigs

Rig: Short ice rod, tiny jigs or micro spoons jigged over Arctic lake basins, often with a flasher

Key tip: Use the smallest jigs — least cisco have small mouths and take tiny baits best.

Small baited hooks in lakes and slow rivers

Rig: Light spinning rod, small hooks with bait under a bobber or on a fine bottom rig in lakes and slow channels

Key tip: Fish schools when found; bites are light, so use a sensitive rod and fine line.

Bottom fishing in cold runs

Rig: Medium-light rod, sliding sinker and a worm on a medium hook in deep runs and pools

Key tip: Keep the bait hard on bottom — longnose suckers feed with the snout down in the gravel.

Spawning-run riffle fishing

Rig: Float rig with a single egg or small worm drifted through gravel riffles during the run

Key tip: Fish the late-spring run when red-striped fish crowd the riffles and bite visibly.

Light bait fishing in eddies

Rig: Light spinning rod, small hook under a slip float or lightly weighted, fished in eddies and seams

Key tip: Keep the bait small and high in turbid water — mooneye feed up like goldeye.

Fly fishing at dusk

Rig: Light fly rod, floating line, small dry flies or nymphs cast to rising fish

Key tip: Work current seams at dusk where mooneye dimple the surface for insects.

Indicator nymphing

Rig: Fly rod or light spinning rod, strike indicator with a small weighted nymph fished dead-drift through deep runs

Key tip: Keep the nymph right on bottom — mountain whitefish rarely move up for food.

Bottom fishing with tiny bait hooks

Rig: Light rod, small split shot and a size 12-14 hook with a maggot or single egg, drifted through pool tailouts

Key tip: Use the smallest hooks you own; the mouth is small and bites in winter are very light.

Casting spoons and spinners

Rig: Medium spinning rod, small silver spoons or spinners worked through pools and current seams

Key tip: Cast across slow pools and retrieve steadily — pikeminnow chase openly in warm summer water.

Bottom fishing with cut bait

Rig: Sliding sinker rig with a chunk of fish or worm on a medium hook, fished in deep eddies

Key tip: Fish deep, slow eddies at dusk when large adults feed most boldly.

Boat bottom fishing

Rig: Medium boat rod, bottom rig with size 2-4 hooks and clam or squid over mud and sand

Key tip: Fish bottom rigs slowly and release any pout gently — they are seldom kept.

Deep pier bottom fishing

Rig: Pier rod, single bottom sinker and hook with sea worm or clam in deep harbour channels

Key tip: Treat it as an encounter species: photograph, identify quickly and release.

Sabiki (herring jig) fishing at piers

Rig: Sabiki rig with shiny hooks jigged vertically from piers where schools pass

Key tip: Find the school and note the depth — herring hold layer after layer at the same depth.

Casting small spoons

Rig: Light rod, small shiny spoon or jig cast to schools at harbour mouths

Key tip: At spawning beaches fish gently and follow local rules; the spawn run is brief and intense.

Pier bottom fishing

Rig: Light rod, bottom rig with small hooks and squid or shrimp pieces over sand or mud

Key tip: Keep the bait on the bottom and move it slowly — sanddab bites are small and tentative.

Small-boat drifting

Rig: Anchored or drifting boat, light bottom weight and small baited hooks dragged over sand flats

Key tip: Drift slowly over open sand flats; one fish usually means a flat is populated.

Bottom bait fishing from piers

Rig: Light rod, small weight and size 6-8 hook with bait resting on the pier bottom

Key tip: In winter fish slowly and close to the bottom — bites are light and a soft strike avoids tearing out.

Sabiki and small-bait fishing

Rig: Sabiki or single hook near the bottom in harbour bays, moved very slowly

Key tip: A shrimp-tipped sabiki takes tomcod and other small pier fish on the same drop.

Night shore fishing with tiny hooks

Rig: Light rod, small float or light sinker, size 12-16 hook with a tiny worm piece, fished from shore after dusk

Key tip: Fish warm summer evenings in slow sloughs — bites are light, so watch the float closely.

Micro float fishing by day

Rig: Ultralight tackle, small float and micro jig or bread bit around docks and weed edges

Key tip: Keep baits tiny — a peamouth mouth is very small and big hooks miss bites.

Piling fishing with shrimp

Rig: Light spinning rod, small weight and size 6-8 hook dropped straight down beside a piling

Key tip: Fish tight to the piling on the shady side and move from piling to piling until you find the group.

Kelp-edge bait fishing

Rig: Light rod, small sinker or split shot cast to the edge of kelp and rocks, fished slowly back

Key tip: Keep the bait close to the rocks — pile perch rarely chase food far into open water.

Bottom micro fishing with worm bits

Rig: Light rod, small sinker and size 10-14 hook with a tiny worm bit, rested right on bottom in sloughs

Key tip: Leave the bait still under a bank or log — sculpins ambush from cover and will not chase.

Micro jigging along bottom

Rig: Ultralight rod with a tiny jig bounced slowly along mud and rock near docks

Key tip: Keep every hop on bottom; a jig lifted into midwater is ignored.

Float fishing with small baits

Rig: Light rod, small float and size 8-12 hook with bread, dough or worm fished near the bottom

Key tip: Fish still canal water close to cover — and remember: any Prussian carp caught in Alberta must not go back alive.

Bottom fishing in canals and slow rivers

Rig: Light ledger rig with a small hook and sweetcorn or pellet bait on canal and riverbeds

Key tip: Bites are gentle; strike at steady float dips or line movement, and check each fish carefully against crucian carp and goldfish.

Still bottom fishing

Rig: Medium-light rod, slip-sinker rig with a small hook resting on soft bottom in slow pools

Key tip: Use a small hook and light line — quillback mouth baits gently and drop heavy rigs.

Drift fishing slow runs

Rig: Light spinning rod, lightly weighted bait drifted slowly through deep runs and backwater edges

Key tip: Keep the bait moving just off bottom and watch for soft, hesitant takes.

Ice fishing with tiny hooks

Rig: Short ice rod or hand line, tiny hooks or small jigs fished in schools under estuary or lake ice, often from an ice cabin

Key tip: Smelt travel in schools and bite in waves — keep baits small and rebait often when a school passes.

Spring dip-netting at stream mouths

Rig: Long-handled dip net worked at night in creeks and river mouths during the spawning run, where regulations allow

Key tip: Check local rules and seasons carefully; dip-net fisheries are tightly regulated and often limited to specific waters and dates.

Micro-lure casting in wetlands

Rig: Ultralight rod, small spinners, spoons or 1-2 in soft plastics worked slowly through gaps in the weed

Key tip: Fish slow and shallow — redfin pickerel ambush from the thickest weed and strike at close range.

Bait fishing with small minnows and worms

Rig: Light rod, small hook under a small float with worm or a small minnow fished along marsh edges

Key tip: Present bait still beside weed edges and pause — pike study prey before striking.

Small jig fishing around rock

Rig: Light spinning rod, 1/16-1/8 oz jig heads with small soft plastics hopped along rocky bottom

Key tip: Cast tight to boulders and riprap — rock bass rarely chase far from cover.

Worm and bobber from shore

Rig: Light rod, small hook and split shot under a bobber, fished beside docks and shoreline rock

Key tip: Keep the bait just off bottom near rock; bites are usually quick and bold.

Tiny-hook shore bottom fishing

Rig: Light rod, size 10-12 hook with a tiny worm piece and a small split shot fished on rocky bottom

Key tip: It bites anything, instantly — most anglers meet it as bait-stealing bycatch, and in Ontario it must not be released.

Drop-shot and micro-jig fishing

Rig: Light spinning rod, micro jig or drop-shot soft plastic worked along breakwaters and harbour walls

Key tip: Anglers targeting perch and bass catch gobies constantly; learn the suction-disc check before assuming any small bottom fish is a sculpin.

Small spinners and flies in rivers

Rig: Light spinning or fly rod, small spinners, tiny spoons or small nymphs fished in clear northern rivers

Key tip: Fish pools and runs in spring; round whitefish take small offerings presented close to the bottom.

Small baited hooks in lakes

Rig: Light rod, small hooks with bait on a fine bottom rig or under a bobber over lake shoals, especially in fall

Key tip: Target gravel shoals in fall at spawning time; bites are light, so watch for the smallest movement.

Tiny-bait dock fishing

Rig: Light rod, split shot and size 10-12 hook dropped beside dock pilings

Key tip: Use the smallest hook and bait you have — a big bait is simply ignored by these small mouths.

Sabiki fishing from piers

Rig: Sabiki rig with tiny flies/hooks fished vertically beside pilings, gently jigged

Key tip: Jig slowly near the bottom of the piling; a whole swarm often follows the first hooked fish up.

Spring creek-mouth bottom fishing

Rig: Medium-light rod, small hook and split shot resting on bottom at creek mouths during the run

Key tip: Fish right where the creek meets the river or lake — redhorse stack up there in spring.

Rocky-run drift fishing

Rig: Light spinning rod, lightly weighted worm drifted through riffle tails and rocky runs

Key tip: Let the bait tumble naturally along the rocks and set the hook on any stop or tap.

Wharf bottom fishing

Rig: Medium-light rod, small hook and sinker with shrimp or clam, dropped straight down wharf pilings

Key tip: Fish tight to the piling — sculpins sit in cover and barely move for a bait.

Rocky bottom casting

Rig: Spinning rod, single bottom rig with small fish or shrimp pieces, cast into pockets of rocky ground

Key tip: Handle carefully or not at all: spines are sharp — remove hooks with pliers and release the fish.

Bottom fishing deep runs

Rig: Medium rod, slip-sinker rig with worms resting in deep runs and pool tails

Key tip: Be patient — silver redhorse feed deliberately and bites can be slow, heavy pulls.

Spring riffle-edge fishing

Rig: Medium-light rod, lightly weighted worms fished along riffle edges during the spring spawn

Key tip: Target the softer water just off the fast riffle where staging fish rest.

Boat bottom fishing

Rig: Medium-heavy rod, heavy weight and strong 5/0-7/0 hook with wire leader over reefs and channels

Key tip: Use a wire leader — teeth and rough skin cut light leaders, and always avoid the dorsal spines.

Pier and shore bottom bait

Rig: Heavier spinning rod, sliding sinker and large hook cast from deep pier ends

Key tip: Handle the fish away from the dorsal spine, unhook with pliers and skin promptly if keeping.

Pier and estuary bottom fishing

Rig: Light to medium rod, bottom rig with a small hook baited with shrimp over mud and sand

Key tip: Fish the last two hours of the rising tide in estuaries — staghorns move in with the water.

Small-boat bottom fishing in bays

Rig: Light boat rod, small jig or bottom rig over eelgrass edges and sandy bays

Key tip: Handle with wet hands and a grip behind the head — those antler spines and gill covers are sharp.

Night bottom fishing in riffles

Rig: Medium rod, bottom rig with worms or cut bait fished in rocky runs after dark

Key tip: Fish after full dark below riffles — and use pliers and a wet towel if you must unhook one; keep hands away from the spines.

Flat-rock drift fishing

Rig: Light to medium rod, small hook and split shot drifted with worms through flat-rock runs at dusk

Key tip: Work the seam below flat rocks at dusk, as stonecats leave their daytime hides to feed.

Kelp and rock bait fishing

Rig: Light rod, small weight and size 6-8 hook cast to the edge of kelp and rocks

Key tip: Cast accurately tight to the rocks — a metre too far into open water is usually a metre too far from the fish.

Piling and breakwater fishing

Rig: Light rod, split shot and single hook lowered beside fouled pilings and breakwater rocks

Key tip: Work each stretch of rock; small groups occupy particular kelp pockets.

Surf fishing with sand crabs

Rig: Carolina rig with a 1 oz egg sinker and size 4-6 hook, cast into the surf trough

Key tip: Dig your sand crabs at the water's edge and fish the trough right behind the breakers; surfperch feed within metres of the sand.

Dip-netting at spawning beaches

Rig: Long-handled dip net swept in the surf at a spawning beach, where legal and in season

Key tip: Check rules and openings exactly — beach runs are regulated and brief.

Tiny sabiki near beaches

Rig: Sabiki rig with size 12-14 hooks fished near beaches and pier ends, jigged very gently

Key tip: Expect light bites and many misses; the value is the encounter with a classic beach spawner.

Cover jigging

Rig: Light spinning rod, 1/16-1/8 oz jig with a small soft plastic pitched tight to stumps and weed edges

Key tip: Pitch right against cover and let it fall — warmouth rarely chase, they lunge from hiding.

Bait under a float

Rig: Small float, split shot and a size 6-8 hook fished beside marsh weeds and logs

Key tip: Keep the bait close to cover in calm marsh water; a long pause often draws the strike.

Estuary bait fishing

Rig: Light spinning rod, small hook under a float or on a light bottom rig with worm or shrimp

Key tip: Fish the spring run on a rising tide and keep moving along the bank until you find the school.

Small jig and spinner casting

Rig: Ultralight rod, 1/16-1/8 oz jigs or tiny spinners cast around docks, points and creek mouths

Key tip: Retrieve slowly just off bottom — white perch follow in packs and often hit on the pause.

Bottom fishing with worms

Rig: Medium rod, sliding sinker and a worm on a medium hook in pools and slow runs

Key tip: Fish pools at dusk — white suckers feed boldly on bottom baits after dark.

Spring creek-mouth run fishing

Rig: Float rig with a small worm or dough bait drifted through creek mouths during the run

Key tip: Time the spring run: when creeks warm, suckers stack at mouths and bite freely.

Sand-bay bait fishing

Rig: Light rod, small weight and size 6-8 hook cast over sand near piers or docks

Key tip: Fish slowly near the bottom; the school holds on the sandy edge of the structure.

Pier-edge fishing

Rig: Light rod, split shot and single hook dropped at the end of the pier and retrieved slowly

Key tip: Its deeply forked tail swims strongly — play a hooked fish gently and do not force the light line.

High-low rig from piers and party boats

Rig: High-low bottom rig with two size 4-6 hooks above a 2-4 oz sinker, fished straight down from a pier or party boat

Key tip: Use small hooks and small baits — scup nibble fast and a big hook misses most bites.

Bottom fishing over mussel beds and rock

Rig: Charter-boat bottom rig with a bank sinker over mussel beds and rocky structure, kept tight to the bottom

Key tip: Anchor up-current of the structure and chum lightly; the school will gather under the boat.

Surf fishing behind the breakers

Rig: Light surf rod, two-hook bottom rig with size 4-6 hooks and a pyramid sinker, cast just behind the breakers into the trough

Key tip: Fish close — most kingfish feed within 30 ft (9 m) of the beach in the wash.

Pier and jetty bottom rigs

Rig: Medium-light rod, high-low rig over sand beside piers and jetties, small hooks kept near the bottom

Key tip: Let the rig sit in the sand trough and recast often — schools move along the beach.

Pier fishing on the fall spot run

Rig: Light rod, two-hook bottom rig with size 6-8 hooks and a small sinker beside pier pilings

Key tip: Fish the fall run at dusk — when one spot bites, the whole school is usually below.

Boat fishing over bay channel edges

Rig: Medium-light rod, two-hook bottom rig drifted or anchored along bay channel edges and oyster bottom

Key tip: Anchor on the channel edge and keep baits on the bottom; spot feed tight to structure.

Casting shad darts and tiny spoons in spring runs

Rig: Light spinning rod, 1/16-1/8 oz shad dart or tiny spoon cast across current below dams and retrieved through eddies

Key tip: Fish the current seams and eddies — hickories hold just off the fastest water.

Fly fishing with small bright streamers

Rig: 5-6 wt fly rod, intermediate line and small bright streamers swung in tidal creeks

Key tip: Swing the fly slowly across the current and hang on — strikes are hard for the fish's size.

Trolling spreader bars and squid chains

Rig: Heavy trolling gear, spreader bars and squid chains trolled over offshore structure and temperature breaks at 4-6 knots

Key tip: Troll the edges of bait and temperature breaks at first light — giants feed up top early.

Chunking on heavy stand-up gear

Rig: Heavy stand-up gear, butterfish chunks on circle hooks, drifting in a herring or menhaden slick over structure

Key tip: Keep a steady chunk stream and hide the hook inside the chunk; patience in the slick is everything.

Bottom rigs while drifting for fluke and sea bass

Rig: Standard fluke drift rig or high-low rig with squid or clam, drifted over sand and mud — sea robins take it as frequent bycatch

Key tip: Handle carefully — head spines are sharp and the fish will grunt loudly; unhook over the rail.

Party-boat high-low rigs over sand and mud

Rig: Party-boat high-low rig with two hooks and a bank sinker over sand and mud bottom

Key tip: If sea robins dominate, move a little — fluke and sea bass often hold just off the robin patch.

Bottom baits tight to oyster reefs

Rig: Simple bottom rig with a 1/0-3/0 hook and just enough weight to hold on oyster reef, pilings or rock

Key tip: Fish it right against the structure — toadfish barely leave their shelter to feed, and expect snags on oyster bottom.

Dock bottom fishing (frequent bycatch)

Rig: Small bottom rig with crab or shrimp chunks fished beside dock pilings while crabbing or general bottom fishing

Key tip: Most dock toadfish arrive as bycatch — unhook with pliers and keep fingers clear of the strong jaws.

Sabiki rigs from winter piers

Rig: A multi-hook sabiki rig with a small sinker or jig at the bottom, jigged gently from piers and harbour walls

Key tip: Fish cold evenings under harbour lights — keep the rig moving slowly and expect several fish on at once.

Diamond jigs over schools from boats

Rig: Small diamond jig or feather rig dropped through marked schools over banks and ledges

Key tip: Watch the sounder — drop to the school's depth, jig with short lifts, and keep caught fish for bait or the table quickly on ice.

Deep-water bottom rigs on winter party boats

Rig: High-low bottom rig with 3/0-5/0 hooks, clam or squid, and 8-16 oz of lead for 100-300 ft (30-90 m)

Key tip: Keep the bait hard on the mud — red hake hug soft bottom and bite softly, so watch for a gentle nod rather than a slam.

Night fishing over soft mud

Rig: Standard two-hook bottom rig fished at anchor over mud in 100-300 ft (30-90 m) after dark

Key tip: Fishing improves after sunset when hake leave their daytime shelter — fish patiently and rebait often.

Deep-drop rigs over ledges and mud basins

Rig: Heavy bottom rig with 5/0-7/0 hooks and 12-20 oz of lead over Gulf of Maine ledges and mud at 200-600 ft (60-180 m)

Key tip: Give a hooked cusk steady pressure — it bulldogs for the bottom and will wedge into rough ground if you let it run.

Cod and haddock trips (valued bycatch)

Rig: Standard groundfish bottom rig with clam baits fished on cod and haddock party-boat grounds

Key tip: Fish the roughest patches on the ground — cusk favour ledges and boulders that cod anglers often drift past.

Deep reef and wreck rigs (striking bycatch)

Rig: Standard groundfish bottom rig with clam bait over deep reef and wreck on Gulf of Maine trips

Key tip: Expect it while cod fishing — lift it aboard in the net for a photo, keep hands clear of the spiny head, and release it quickly.

Clam-baited high-low rigs over rock

Rig: High-low rig with 3/0-5/0 hooks and clam, fished on rocky bottom in the Gulf of Maine

Key tip: Fish the roughest rock you can find — sea ravens sit tight to reef, and a slow, patient soak catches them.

Small baited bottom hooks (constant bycatch)

Rig: Any small baited bottom hook — size 2-1/0 with clam or shrimp — from piers and party boats

Key tip: You will catch them whether you target them or not — unhook with pliers, watch the cheek spines, and release.

Shore fishing over rocks

Rig: Light bottom rig with shrimp or clam pieces cast to rock and jetty edges from shore

Key tip: Fish close to the rocks where sculpins sit — expect snags, and bring spare rigs.

Float fishing live shiners at dock lights

Rig: Light spinning rod, small float and size 4-6 hook with a live shiner, fished near the surface around lighted docks at night

Key tip: Keep the bait near the surface and stay alert — strikes are fast slashes, and hooked fish may leap toward the light.

Sight-casting to surface schools

Rig: Light rod with a 1/8 oz small jig or tiny spoon, cast ahead of surface schools in back bays and river mouths

Key tip: Cast past the school and retrieve fast just under the surface; a slow retrieve is usually ignored.

Surf bottom fishing after dark

Rig: Surf rod with a fish-finder or high-low rig, 4/0-6/0 circle hook and bunker or clam chunk, cast into surf troughs after dark

Key tip: Fish the first two hours after sunset in summer — packs move in close and bites come in flurries.

Pier and bay bottom fishing

Rig: Medium rod, standard bottom rig with squid or cut bait over sand and mud in bays and off piers

Key tip: Use circle hooks and keep baits on the bottom; check baits often, as dogfish travel in packs and strip hooks quickly.

Pier fishing with small hooks and shrimp

Rig: Light rod, small size 6-8 hooks on a bottom rig with tiny shrimp pieces, fished from piers and docks

Key tip: Use small hooks and small baits — the mouth is small and perch nip rather than gulp.

Surf and bay bottom rigs

Rig: Light surf or bay rod, high-low bottom rig with bloodworm or shrimp pieces over sand

Key tip: Cast into beach troughs and bay sand flats; a slow day often turns on when a school moves through.

Pier fishing with tiny hooks — a kids' first fish

Rig: Light rod, tiny size 8-10 hooks on a small bottom rig with shrimp or squid bits, fished from piers and docks

Key tip: Perfect first fish for children — but handle gently, expect it to puff up, and release it unharmed.

Bay bottom fishing at eelgrass edges

Rig: Light bay rod, small bottom rig worked along eelgrass edges and sand pockets in shallow bays

Key tip: Fish warm summer days over mixed sand and grass; bites are quick pecks, so keep baits small.

Surf bottom fishing (common bycatch)

Rig: Surf rod, standard bottom rig with clam or cut bait on circle hooks, cast beyond the surf breakers

Key tip: Mostly taken as bycatch while surf fishing — handle flat with wet hands, support the disc, and release quickly.

Pier bottom fishing at night

Rig: Medium rod, bottom rig with squid or clam fished from piers after dark over sand

Key tip: Night tides over sand produce most pier skates; lift carefully or use a net, as the disc is awkward on a hook alone.

Sabiki fishing at piers and party boats

Rig: Light rod with a sabiki rig of tiny hooks and small jigs, jigged gently around piers, docks and over party-boat grounds

Key tip: Jig gently in mid-water where schools show on the sounder; the mouth is tiny and soft, so lift fish aboard rather than swinging them.

Miniature bottom rigs with shrimp or bloodworm

Rig: Ultralight rod, miniature bottom rig with size 8-10 hooks and small pieces of shrimp or bloodworm

Key tip: Keep pieces tiny and hooks small — butterfish peck softly and tear free on heavy gear.

Trolling rigged ballyhoo on light tackle

Rig: 20-30 lb class trolling outfit, circle hook in a rigged ballyhoo, trolled at 6-8 knots over canyon edges with teasers and dredges

Key tip: Fish clean temperature breaks on the canyon edges and be ready for a fast drop-back — whites often swipe before they eat.

Live-baiting and kite fishing on the Stream edge

Rig: Live pilchard or goggle-eye under a kite or on a flat line, 30 lb tackle, circle hook through the bait's back, on the edge of the Gulf Stream

Key tip: Keep the bait at the surface where whites hunt, and let the fish eat before coming tight on the circle hook.

Night chunking in the Northeast canyons

Rig: Chunk butterfish and squid on 60-80 lb fluorocarbon leaders with circle hooks, drifted at different depths in a steady chunk slick over a canyon edge at night

Key tip: Keep the chunk flow steady and fish one bait deep — bigeyes rise into the slick after dark.

Deep trolling and vertical jigging at seamounts and FADs

Rig: Heavy trolling lures by day around Hawaiian seamounts and FADs, or 200-400 g vertical jigs worked deep at dawn and dusk

Key tip: Mark fish deep on the sounder and drop jigs to that exact depth — bigeyes hold well below surface yellowfin.

Surf fishing with two-hook bottom rigs

Rig: Light surf rod, two-hook bottom rig with size 2-4 hooks and a pyramid sinker, cast into the trough behind the first sandbar

Key tip: Fish the deep trough close to the beach — whiting feed in surprisingly shallow surf.

Pier bottom fishing with fresh shrimp

Rig: Light spinning rod, small two-hook rig or Carolina rig with fresh shrimp pieces, dropped straight down beside pier pilings

Key tip: Use small pieces and small hooks; rebait often because whiting nibble baits clean.

Crankbaits and jigs through rocky shoals

Rig: Medium spinning or baitcasting outfit, small crawfish crankbait, tube jig or swimbait cast upstream and worked through shoals and current breaks

Key tip: Cast above the shoal and let the lure swing with the current — shoal bass ambush from behind rocks.

Fly fishing with crawfish patterns and streamers

Rig: 5-6 weight fly rod, floating or sink-tip line, crawfish pattern or streamer fished deep through Flint and Chattahoochee-type shoals

Key tip: Wade carefully and fish the seams between fast and slow water where crayfish tumble through.

Light spinning lures along limestone banks

Rig: Light spinning outfit, small crankbait or soft plastic cast tight to limestone banks and spring runs and retrieved with the current

Key tip: In clear spring water, stay low, cast long and use light line — Suwannees spook easily.

Small lures and flies tight to snags

Rig: Light spinning rod or 4-5 weight fly rod, inline spinner, small crankbait or fly worked tight to snags and undercut banks

Key tip: Put the lure right against cover — this bass rarely leaves its rock or snag to chase.

Chumming spadefish up at wrecks and pilings

Rig: Light spinning outfit, small strong hook with a pea-sized piece of shrimp or clam, drifted weightless or under a small float in a chum slick at wrecks, reefs and bridge pilings

Key tip: Chum them up until you can see the school, then drift the bait at their exact depth — spadefish will not chase.

Jellyball fishing under a float at North Carolina wrecks

Rig: Small piece of cannonball jelly on a small hook under a float, fished at mid-depth over summer wrecks off North Carolina

Key tip: Match the depth of the hovering school and use the smallest piece that stays on the hook — big baits get ignored.

Ultralight lures and small jigs in rocky creeks

Rig: Light 6-6.5 ft spinning rod, 4-8 lb line, 1/16-1/8 oz jig or small spinner worked through shoals and pools

Key tip: Cast upstream and drift lures past boulders and current seams — redeyes hold tight to rock and strike short.

Fly fishing with poppers and nymphs

Rig: 4-5 weight fly rod, floating line and 7.5-9 ft leader, small popper or crayfish nymph in clear upland streams

Key tip: Work poppers slowly over pool tails at dawn and dusk; switch to a nymph along the bottom when fish refuse the surface.

Finesse soft plastics and jigs on reservoir structure

Rig: Medium-light spinning rod, 6-10 lb fluorocarbon, shaky head or drop shot with a small worm on points, humps and brush

Key tip: Use electronics to find schools on offshore structure and keep the bait on the bottom — spotted-type bass feed down.

Small swimbaits and shaky heads in rivers and creeks

Rig: Medium spinning or baitcasting rod, 8-12 lb line, 3-4 in swimbait or shaky head worked through creek channels and current seams

Key tip: Target current breaks and creek mouths in spring; river fish hold tighter to cover than reservoir schools.

Small baits and flies in cypress swamps

Rig: Light spinning or fly rod, small hook or fly fished slowly in sloughs and blackwater creeks around cypress knees

Key tip: Fish the shade tight to knees and roots — fliers hover in cover and will not chase far.

Micro jigs and grass shrimp under a float

Rig: Ultralight rod, small float set 1-2 ft deep, micro jig or hook with grass shrimp around flooded timber

Key tip: Keep the float still and let the bait hang in the timber; twitch gently to draw a strike.

Stumpknocker fishing around stumps and snags

Rig: Light rod, small hook or jig with worm or cricket pitched tight to stumps, snags and root cover

Key tip: Cast within inches of wood — these fish live on the cover and rarely move out into open water.

Fly fishing with small poppers in slow rivers

Rig: 3-4 weight fly rod, floating line and small popper or nymph drifted along slow coastal river banks

Key tip: Work shady banks and stump fields in the evening; pause the popper long between twitches.

Tiny hooks with worms or dough in rocky streams

Rig: Light rod, small float or split shot and size 10-14 hook with a worm piece, fished in riffles and runs

Key tip: Let the bait drift naturally along the bottom of a riffle — chubs pick it up on the move. Note: live river chubs are premium smallmouth bait where regulations allow baitfish use.

Micro jigs and small flies in riffles

Rig: Ultralight spinning rod or light fly rod, micro jig or small nymph worked through riffles and pool tails

Key tip: Keep offerings small and near the rocks; in spring, fish below active pebble mounds without disturbing them.

Shad darts and small spoons below dams

Rig: Light to medium spinning rod, 6-10 lb line, shad dart or small spoon cast across tailrace current during the spring run

Key tip: Fish only during the brief spring run, handle fish gently in the water and release quickly — runs are depleted and rules often prohibit keeping.

Drifting small bright jigs in tailrace currents

Rig: Light spinning rod, small bright jig drifted or slowly retrieved through tailrace seams and eddies from boat or bank

Key tip: Keep jigs near mid-depth in the current seam; expect soft takes and use a soft net or wet hands for release.

Cut bait or shrimp on bottom rigs

Rig: Medium rod, standard bottom rig with a 2/0-4/0 circle hook, shrimp or cut bait fished on sand in bays and surf

Key tip: Most rays are incidental catches and are released — keep the ray in the water, keep clear of the tail, and cut the leader close if it cannot be dehooked safely.

Pier bottom fishing in summer shallows

Rig: Medium rod, bottom rig with clam or shrimp fished from piers over sand in summer

Key tip: Shuffle your feet when wading nearby shallows, and never lift a ray by its tail.

Large cut baits on flats edges and channels

Rig: Medium-heavy rod, bottom rig with a 5/0-7/0 circle hook and a large cut bait or crab, fished on flats edges and channel drops

Key tip: Treat it as catch-and-release: fight it away from the tail, keep it in the water boatside, and cut the leader close rather than handling the spine.

Bridge and pier bottom fishing at night

Rig: Heavy pier rod, bottom rig with shrimp or cut bait fished at night around bridge pilings and pier ends over sand

Key tip: Use a bridge net if a lift is unavoidable, support the disc, and release in the water whenever possible — never lift by the tail.

Bottom rigs with clam or crab in bays

Rig: Medium-heavy rod, bottom rig with a 4/0-6/0 circle hook and clam or crab, fished over shellfish beds when schools move into bays

Key tip: Most are released — keep the ray in the water, watch the small spine at the tail base, and support the disc.

Sight-casting to migrating surface schools

Rig: Medium-heavy spinning rod, a small lead-head jig or bait cast ahead of a moving surface school from a boat

Key tip: Cast ahead of the school, not into its centre, and expect a long, powerful first run.

Kite fishing with live baits off South Florida

Rig: Boat fishing with fishing kites suspending live goggle-eyes or threadfins at the surface on 20-30 lb tackle, circle hooks and long leaders

Key tip: Keep baits at the surface along reef edges and colour changes; release the sailfish in the water and revive it before letting go.

Trolling ballyhoo and strip baits

Rig: Trolling rigged ballyhoo and strip baits with teasers along reef edges and colour changes at 5-8 knots

Key tip: Watch teasers for a lit-up sailfish, drop back a bait, and use circle hooks for a clean corner-of-jaw hook-up and release.

Topwater plugs and fast spoons into feeding schools

Rig: Medium-heavy spinning rod, a noisy topwater plug or heavy spoon cast into a surface-feeding school and retrieved fast

Key tip: Cast to the edge of a 'jack attack', keep the lure moving fast, and expect the school to follow a hooked fish to the boat.

Live bait under bridges and in inlets

Rig: Medium-heavy rod, live mullet or threadfin on a circle hook with a light split shot or free-lined, fished under bridges, in inlets and around shrimp boats

Key tip: Fish moving tides at dawn; let the bait swim naturally and hold on for a deep, stubborn fight.

Frogs and buzzbaits over canal vegetation

Rig: Heavy spinning or baitcasting rod with 30-50 lb braid, a weedless hollow-body frog or buzzbait worked over canal vegetation and along banks

Key tip: Pause the frog in open pockets — bullseyes often strike on the pause. Keep every fish you catch; never release it.

Live shiners and soft plastics along canal banks

Rig: Medium-heavy rod, a live shiner under a small float or a soft plastic swimbait fished slowly along canal banks, culverts and junctions

Key tip: Fish shaded cover at dawn and dusk in warm months, and dispatch and keep the fish — do not move it live to any other water.

Jerkbaits, prop baits and live shiners in the canals

Rig: Medium spinning or baitcasting outfit, jerkbait, prop bait or a live shiner under a small float, worked along Miami-area canal edges, bridges and culverts

Key tip: Work baits fast and close to cover — peacocks chase down prey in warm water and often strike a second time after a miss.

Fly fishing with streamers along canal edges

Rig: 7-9 weight fly rod, floating line and bright streamer flies cast tight to canal banks, rocks and dock shadows

Key tip: Strip fast with pauses; a following peacock that refuses will often eat when the fly suddenly speeds up.

Small hooks over reefs and wrecks

Rig: Bottom rig with small strong hooks (size 1-2/0) baited with thumbnail-sized squid or shrimp pieces, dropped tight to reefs and wrecks

Key tip: Use small baits and set the hook at the first peck — triggers shred big baits without ever taking the hook.

Two-hook bottom rigs around structure

Rig: Two-hook bottom rig with tiny strong hooks and just enough weight to hold over rock piles and artificial reefs

Key tip: Keep the rig vertical and close to structure; if you drift off the reef the bites stop.

Light bottom rigs over patch reefs

Rig: Light spinning outfit and a small knocker rig or jig head with shrimp or crab, fished quietly over patch reefs and hard bottom

Key tip: Scale down and keep still — hogfish inspect baits closely and spook easily from heavy tackle and boat noise.

Freediving and spearfishing (the classic take)

Rig: Freediving with a speargun or pole spear over patch reefs; hogfish allow a closer approach than most reef fish

Key tip: Spearfishing rules, seasons and size limits vary by state and area — check the current rules before diving, and take only legal fish.

Mud minnows and finger mullet around marsh edges

Rig: Jig head or Carolina rig baited with a mud minnow or finger mullet, dragged slowly along marsh edges, creek mouths and dock pilings

Key tip: Fish painfully slowly and pause after a strike — flounder grab the bait, then turn it before swallowing.

Gigging at night in the fall flounder run

Rig: Shallow skiff or wading with bright lights and a gig, working sand flats and marsh shorelines on calm fall nights

Key tip: State rules on gigging, seasons and limits vary widely and have tightened with stock declines — check the current rules first.

Shrimp or soft plastics under popping corks

Rig: Popping cork rig with shrimp or a soft plastic jig suspended 2-4 ft below, worked over bay shell and sand bottoms

Key tip: Pop the cork sharply and let it sit — sand trout rise to the sound and take the bait on the pause.

Bottom fishing with cut bait at night

Rig: Simple bottom rig with small pieces of cut bait or dead shrimp, fished around bridges and lighted piers after dark

Key tip: Use a gentle lift on the strike — their mouths tear easily, so play fish softly on light drag.

Trolling large plugs and live baits over reef edges

Rig: Heavy trolling outfit with large deep-diving plugs or slow-trolled live baits along reef edges and rock piles

Key tip: Troll tight to the reef edge at the depth of the structure — blacks rise from their holes to smash a passing bait.

Bottom fishing live pinfish and grunts on heavy tackle

Rig: Heavy conventional outfit, long leader and a live pinfish or grunt dropped tight to wrecks and rock piles

Key tip: Lock the drag and win the first ten seconds — if a black reaches its hole, the fight is usually lost.

Bottom fishing live bait over natural reef

Rig: Boat rod with a knocker or fish-finder rig, 6/0-8/0 circle hook and 6-12 oz sinker, fished on natural reef and ledges in 100-300 ft (30-90 m)

Key tip: Anchor or drift precisely over the ledge edge — scamp hold tight to structure and rarely chase a bait far.

Slow-pitch jigging over hard bottom

Rig: Slow-pitch jigging rod with 100-200 g jigs worked just above hard bottom and low reef

Key tip: Keep the jig near the bottom with slow lifts; most strikes come on the fall close to the reef.

Electric-reel deep dropping

Rig: Electric reel on a stout deep-drop rod, multi-hook chicken rig with 12/0-14/0 circle hooks, 3-5 lb sinker and a light stick, fished in 600-1000+ ft (180-300+ m)

Key tip: Fish small humps and ledge edges, keep the rig on the bottom, and check the current quota before keeping any fish.

Manual deep-drop rigs on offshore humps

Rig: Heavy hand-crank reel, stout rod and a two-hook deep-drop rig with whole squid over offshore humps and ridges

Key tip: Work the up-current edge of the hump and wind steadily once hooked — stopping lets a grouper reach the rocks.

Deep dropping whole fish baits

Rig: Heavy deep-drop outfit, often an electric reel, with a single large circle hook on a heavy leader and 3-6 lb sinker over structure in 400-1000 ft (120-300 m)

Key tip: A warsaw is a rare bonus on deep grouper grounds — if a giant comes up, favour a quick release unless the current rules clearly allow keeping it.

Heavy deep-drop rigs on offshore breaks

Rig: Bent-butt rod with a heavy hand-crank or electric reel, multi-hook deep-drop rig with large cut baits fished on offshore breaks and wreck edges

Key tip: Wind steadily and keep pressure on — a hooked warsaw heads straight for the structure.

Deep dropping squid on multi-hook rigs

Rig: Electric or heavy manual reel, multi-hook deep-drop (chicken) rig with 7/0-9/0 circle hooks, 2-4 lb sinker and light sticks, fished in 400-800 ft (120-245 m)

Key tip: Work a tight depth band along the slope and drift slowly; queens often hold within a narrow depth range.

Electric-reel fishing on steep island slopes

Rig: Electric reel on a stout deep-drop rod with a multi-hook rig, fished straight down along steep island drop-offs — the classic Puerto Rico and USVI method

Key tip: Use the boat's electronics to stay on the slope contour; a few fathoms off the band can mean no bites.

Surf and pier fishing on the spring migration

Rig: Heavy surf or pier rod, fish-finder rig with an 8/0-10/0 circle hook on a short wire leader and cut bait, cast beyond the breakers during the spring migration

Key tip: Fish where birds and bait schools show along the beach — migrating blacktips travel with the bait.

Chumming and live-baiting from boats

Rig: Medium-heavy boat rod, live bait free-lined or under a balloon behind a chum slick, on a wire leader with an 8/0-10/0 circle hook

Key tip: Keep the drag ready — a hooked blacktip often jumps and spins immediately, so give it room on the first run.

Casting spoons and jigs to rolling schools

Rig: Light spinning rod with a small silver spoon, soft-plastic jig or small fly cast to rolling, feeding schools on flats and channel edges

Key tip: Retrieve fast with twitches — ladyfish are aggressive sight feeders, the classic 'poor man's tarpon' fun on light tackle.

Live shrimp under a float

Rig: Light rod, popping cork or float with a live shrimp on a small hook, fished around mangroves and flats edges

Key tip: Set the hook gently and play them softly — ladyfish have soft mouths and throw hooks easily, especially when they jump.

Sabiki rigs and small spoons at piers

Rig: Light spinning rod, sabiki rig or 1/4-1/2 oz silver spoon cast around piers, jetties and bait schools

Key tip: Work the edges of bait schools and current lines — runners strike fast, so keep the retrieve quick.

Trolling small feathers and spoons over reefs

Rig: Boat trolling outfit, small feather or spoon behind a trolling weight or planer over reef edges at 4-6 knots

Key tip: Troll along reef edges and colour changes where runners hunt baitfish.

Jigs and live bait over reefs and wrecks

Rig: Medium spinning or conventional outfit, jig or live-bait hook fished over reef and wreck structure

Key tip: Let the bait drift naturally in the current over the reef — yellow jacks are wary of heavy leaders.

Drifting pilchards and shrimp over patch reefs

Rig: Light to medium rod, free-lined or lightly weighted pilchard or shrimp drifted over patch reefs where fish shadow rays and sharks

Key tip: Watch for rays and sharks crossing the patches — cast ahead of them, where yellow jacks follow.

Trolling spoons, feathers and ballyhoo over reef edges

Rig: Light trolling outfit, small spoon, feather or rigged ballyhoo behind a light leader trolled along reef edges at 4-7 knots

Key tip: Use a short trace of light wire — cero are toothy but shy of heavy wire in clear water.

Casting spoons and jigs to surface schools

Rig: Light spinning or fly outfit, small spoon, jig or streamer cast to fish feeding at the surface over shallow reefs

Key tip: Cast ahead of moving fish and retrieve fast — a slow lure is inspected and refused.